BETA PHOTO: Thin Man follows the yellow line. Rocket Man diver...
Description
Thin Man climbs up the center of Main Cliff, just left of Peanut Man. The climb can be recognized by a large, complex orange corner leading to an ominous schist roof.
Belay on the ledge. At the second bolt, bouldery moves deposit the climber onto a hanging slab. More technical moves lead to another hanging slab and the last true rest on the route. From here, a long move up and right to a rail may stymie climbers with less reach. The technical moves continue until a big, energy sapping, deadpoint out right allows exit from the corner.
The schist overhang above is classic Rumney: weird, insecure climbing on steep rock. I have been told that a neck/shoulder scum under the roof offers a good rest. I never could find it and felt instead like my body was being pressed lengthways in a vice. There have also been rumors of a knee bar rest here--never could find that one either. Thin Man ends at an anchor on the upper ledge, about ten feet left of Peanut Man's anchors.
Though traditionally graded 5.13a, there seems to be consensus that Thin Man is at least a letter grade harder. Shorter climbers may find it harder still.
An even better (and harder) second pitch is to move left and up into As The World Burns, an exposed, pumpy 12b that will get you to the belay anchor on the ledge for a third pitch, The Thing , which is the last pitch of Via Ferrata. There is a pin on the second pitch that shouldn't be clipped, or it will introduce a bunch of rope drag. It was used for bolting the route and needs to be removed.
And, yup Jay, the rest is no hands, though you might end up with a crooked neck for a week if you don't find the sweet spot.
By Joe Terravecchia From: Lebanon, Maine Oct 28, 2008 rating: 5.13b
The neck/head scum at the roof with a left foot back step made a big difference. The route feels about as hard as Beat Junkie to me.
By James Otey From: Canterbury, NH Jul 5, 2009 rating: 5.13b
To avoid a crooked neck and sore back, look left at the roof and lean against a small bump with your palm. A bit strenuous on the triceps and core, but I think it beats the neck scum.
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