Climbing Peanut Man. The orange quartzite band is ...
Description
Peanut Man climbs up the center of Main Cliff proper. Scramble from the ground (easy class four) and gain the raised ledge. Belay at an eyebolt on the far right side of the ledge.
The climb starts out with fun, insecure, 5.10ish climbing up steep orange corners. After passing a piton (it's not necessary to clip this) it is possible to rest off a jug at the top of the orange rock. From here, the rock turns to schist, and if you think that the bulge threatens over you like a black raincloud, then you are entirely correct.
The bulge presents the crux of the route--an upward stab into the obvious undercling. The difficulties continue, however, as the holds turn into slopers, leaving the climber grasping for purchase on the rounded topout. A few easier moves lead to the anchors.
Many shorter people think this climb is harder. A long reach helps a great deal on the final topout.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Dec 3, 2007
So as to avoid the wet and snowy beginning of this route in the winter, link-up the crux of Underdog, then climb left into the upper section of Peanut Man. I've heard this combo referred to as "Dog Nuts". There is a bit of a run out between the two routes, but it is on mellow terrain. Highly recommended.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Dec 4, 2007 rating: 5.11d
There is a fixed line to asist with the actual star when the conditions are bad also. It lets you get up to the ledge to put on shoes and such in confidence.
Main Cliff
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