From The New Wave Wall bang a right and head up a steep hill to get to this nice little crag that sees very little traffic considering how close it is (though it is a steep approach)... But i digress... The crag is split in to two section the left which has varied climbing both trad and sport, the right has a few fun, steep, crimpy face climbs most of which were done on gear until recently when they were retro-bolted... The left side as i said is varied in style from crack climbing to face climbing and awkward positions on steep rock... nothing super classic but nothing bad...Sparking Poodles (5.10a) is one i think is really fun... On the right side i really enjoy F-ing The Dog (510d) and Dog Bisquit (5.10c)... Great crimping and interesting sequences stand out as top reasons to visit this section... Over all a nice crag to hit on a busy day to climb short routes from 5.7 to 5.12 due to the fact that the two sides of the crag face different directions you may be able to escape wind and or sun...
Getting There
From new wave follow a trail heading to the right and up a hill for less than 5 minutes...
Continuing with the tradition of canine-inspired route names, Dog Biscuit is so aptly named because (from as far as I can glean) it is quite a tasty treat for rock aficionados!This route climbs the left, then the right side of the striking arete/roof via technical and satisfying moves. Begin on the face directly below the arete with a ramp-like feature to your right. Ascend up, then make a couple exciting moves left beneath a low roof to a mant...[more]
A lot of bolting and retro bolting has happened right of Dog Biscuit 5.10c since the last guide... Ive added what i know but i was wondering if anyone knows more about the routes there and could fill in the blanks... Ive climbed most of the new bolted lines but i dont know what they are called...