Climber on Junco, Lonesome Dove follows the rope o...
Description
Lonesome Dove climbs the blunt arete on the right side of the cliff. It is a fairly sustained slab route. I thought the crux was right around the second or third bolt. Above this, the climbing remains sustained, working up small edges and small holds. The last moves getting to the anchors are interesting. You can either go the right and undercling a large flake or use an easy crack system to the left. Fun route that is worth the wait.
WOW, always classic always fun... one of the best routes of its grade... ive climbed it more times than i can imagine and its still better every time...
By GMBurns From: Boston, MA Jul 15, 2008 rating: 5.9- PG13
I found this to be softer than 10a, but it is still a very nice climb (and I know people will disagree with my rating, so assume it is 10a until you get on it yourself).
Alan told me that he originally climbed the route with only 2 bolts and trad gear, and that he called it 5.9. I would disagree with the PG rating however, I don't think there is an elevated state of risk.
Jimmy Cliff
RSS Feed
