A really fun and super moderate trad climb... A good place to practice the techniques you will need on multi-pitch slab climbs on cliffs like Whitehorse... Such as rope management and switching over belays...
Pitch 1: Start at a nice perch at the base of the slab on the left... Go up smooth sticky slab then up a natural stair case in the rock (good placements at the top of bulge)... Continue up slabs and cracks toward a nice crack above... Climb the crack until it is necessary to break right on the slab and up to the tree belay...
Pitch 2: A short pitch up the slab above the tree to the top... Belay from trees...
What i like to do when I'm teaching multi-pitch climbing and belay techniques is to break the route in to 3 or 4 short pitches to get max experience in changeovers and building trad anchors... There are a bunch of spots to do this... Have fun...
Location
The farthest left route on the slabs at the far left of the cliff... Just to the left of the more popular clip-a-dee-do-da... Just think left...
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Nov 7, 2007 rating: 5.4
I agree with Lee, this is a great route for the beginning trad leader to try out, you can lead the '1st pitch' up to the little ledge, then let them tackle the crack(2nd half of P1) to the tree belay and final run-out pitch(P2).
Jimmy Cliff
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