Start up the slab where there used to be a scetchy ladder made of sticks...up the vertical part which is like junco but harder.... Pull a fun mantle move and be happy...you are half way there, though the crux awaits.... Move through some tricky delicate slab climbing which scares sport climbers (who are not used to slab climbing) every day.... The climbing here is like Lonesome Dove but harder.... Apparently, you can move left to grab the edge of the chimney to your left, but I've always avoided the left edge and gone straight for the top (the direct I hear is 5.11)....
However, you do the crux expect fun climbing, on perfect rock and a beautiful view.... The fact that it is similar to Junco and Lonesome Dove means it is going to kick ass....
Location
Just left of Junco and right of the chimney of Nut Hatch....
Protection
Originally 5 bolts to quick clips, but recently bolts have been added to the bottom slab section....
A lot of fun and a tough crux at the top (either way you do it, right or left). I also saw someone whip when they didn't make the mantle move - it was a long fall, because the belayer was pulled up the wall...might want to make sure a smaller belayer is tied in or something
Jimmy Cliff
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