Climber on Junco, Lonesome Dove follows the rope o...
Description
Lonesome Dove climbs the blunt arete on the right side of the cliff. It is a fairly sustained slab route. I thought the crux was right around the second or third bolt. Above this, the climbing remains sustained, working up small edges and small holds. The last moves getting to the anchors are interesting. You can either go the right and undercling a large flake or use an easy crack system to the left. Fun route that is worth the wait.
WOW, always classic always fun... one of the best routes of its grade... ive climbed it more times than i can imagine and its still better every time...
By GMBurns From: Boston, MA Jul 15, 2008 rating: 5.9- PG13
I found this to be softer than 10a, but it is still a very nice climb (and I know people will disagree with my rating, so assume it is 10a until you get on it yourself).
Alan told me that he originally climbed the route with only 2 bolts and trad gear, and that he called it 5.9. I would disagree with the PG rating however, I don't think there is an elevated state of risk.
A beautiful line to finish up a long Rumney day. The exposure is awesome... Climb it at sunset and when you clip the chains, turn around... You'll be blown away by what you see!
i was wondering does the grade change depending on where you go at the end? i went right to the undercling cuz i didnt see the cracks lol but it felt like the crux to me.... would that make it 10b? or is it 10a going right and easier going left?
i had heard that this line was a trad route before it got bolted... to try to get the full experience i led it on gear today, i found it to be attention getting even though i've done it a TON of times... Small and sometimes tricky gear... Nice job old schoolers, bad ass...
By E thatcher From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH) Jun 16, 2009
lee My friend and I have been eyeing a gear ascent of Lonesome after having done one on The Junco. Glad to hear some first hand experience about it.
A few more points E if you want em...i did junco on gear just before doing Lonesome... as with Junco the gear is there but not nearly as much or as good as you would think in some spots... at about the halfway point a couple of small nuts protect the second hard bulge.... id say just take your time finding something good before moving on and expect PG13 climbing.... have fun and let me know how it goes...
By E thatcher From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH) Jun 17, 2009
Thanks again Lee. I was expecting micro wires and possibly opposed stoppers and few cams. We'll see if I get around to it, may be a fall project since I'm moving north.