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Lonesome Dove 

5.10a

   

FA: Alan Cattabriga, 1989
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Views: 1,873 page views

Submitted By: Steve Marr on Oct 27, 2006


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Climber on Junco, Lonesome Dove follows the rope o...


Description 

Lonesome Dove climbs the blunt arete on the right side of the cliff. It is a fairly sustained slab route. I thought the crux was right around the second or third bolt. Above this, the climbing remains sustained, working up small edges and small holds. The last moves getting to the anchors are interesting. You can either go the right and undercling a large flake or use an easy crack system to the left. Fun route that is worth the wait.


Protection 

7 bolts



Photos of Lonesome Dove Slideshow Add Photo
Technical slab of lonesome dove

Technical slab of lonesome dove

Hilary sending the funness of Lonesome Dove.

Hilary sending the funness of Lonesome Dove.

Casey pointing out some beta on opening day '08.

Casey pointing out some beta on opening day '08.

John boy on on lonesome dove.

John boy on on lonesome dove.

By: Makenzie B.

By: Makenzie B.

Erik T. enjoying a crimptastic crack<br />By: Makenzie B.

Erik T. enjoying a crimptastic crack
By: Makenzie ...



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 17, 2009
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 12, 2008

WOW, always classic always fun... one of the best routes of its grade... ive climbed it more times than i can imagine and its still better every time...

By GMBurns
From: Boston, MA
Jul 15, 2008
rating: 5.9- PG13

I found this to be softer than 10a, but it is still a very nice climb (and I know people will disagree with my rating, so assume it is 10a until you get on it yourself).

By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Jul 16, 2008

Alan told me that he originally climbed the route with only 2 bolts and trad gear, and that he called it 5.9. I would disagree with the PG rating however, I don't think there is an elevated state of risk.

By Maura
From: Concord, CA
Sep 16, 2008

A beautiful line to finish up a long Rumney day. The exposure is awesome... Climb it at sunset and when you clip the chains, turn around... You'll be blown away by what you see!

By christopher adams
May 31, 2009
rating: 5.8+

This would get 5.8+ at the gunks. That doesn't take away from the fact that it's a really nice climb. 4 stars from me.

By Mike Thompson
From: amherst NH
Jun 2, 2009

i was wondering does the grade change depending on where you go at the end? i went right to the undercling cuz i didnt see the cracks lol but it felt like the crux to me.... would that make it 10b? or is it 10a going right and easier going left?

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 2, 2009

no mike thats the standard way to finish... i see the left as an easy out...

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 16, 2009

i had heard that this line was a trad route before it got bolted... to try to get the full experience i led it on gear today, i found it to be attention getting even though i've done it a TON of times... Small and sometimes tricky gear... Nice job old schoolers, bad ass...

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 16, 2009

lee My friend and I have been eyeing a gear ascent of Lonesome after having done one on The Junco. Glad to hear some first hand experience about it.

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 17, 2009

A few more points E if you want em...i did junco on gear just before doing Lonesome... as with Junco the gear is there but not nearly as much or as good as you would think in some spots... at about the halfway point a couple of small nuts protect the second hard bulge.... id say just take your time finding something good before moving on and expect PG13 climbing.... have fun and let me know how it goes...

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 17, 2009

Thanks again Lee. I was expecting micro wires and possibly opposed stoppers and few cams. We'll see if I get around to it, may be a fall project since I'm moving north.