Junco starts with easy slab climbing. Thought provoking moves gain a stellar finger crack. Lay back and jam (crux) over the top bulge with considerable exposure and a fabulous view. My favorite 5.8 at Rumney.
Location
Junco is on the far right side of Jimmy Cliff, but left of the blunt arete of Lonesome Dove (10a). Easily identified by the finger crack at the top of the line.
I also got the rope stuck in the crack on the top. I felt the tug from below just before I reached the anchor. Not fun, due caution. Probably due to the fact that I had no idea what I was doing at that point in my climbing....
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Dec 3, 2007 rating: 5.8+
A great 5.8 which feels a bit more traditional than others of the same grade in Rumney.
My friend and I agreed that this is the best climb on this section of the wall, even better than lonesome dove (which gets all the stars in the book..I think)
Jimmy Cliff
RSS Feed
