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Jimmy Cliff
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Junco 

5.8+

   

FA: Alan Cattabriga, 1989
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 1,735 page views

Submitted By: Kayte Knower on Oct 22, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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BETA PHOTO: The Junco and Lonesome Dove.


Description 

Junco starts with easy slab climbing. Thought provoking moves gain a stellar finger crack. Lay back and jam (crux) over the top bulge with considerable exposure and a fabulous view. My favorite 5.8 at Rumney.


Location 

Junco is on the far right side of Jimmy Cliff, but left of the blunt arete of Lonesome Dove (10a). Easily identified by the finger crack at the top of the line.


Protection 

Glue in bolts



Photos of Junco Slideshow Add Photo
Sarah making the long reach to the sloping rail on Junco

Sarah making the long reach to the sloping rail on...

Tom on route

Tom on route

Junco

Junco

There is a no hands rest right here..

BETA PHOTO: There is a no hands rest right here..


Comments on Junco Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Patrick Bagley
Oct 22, 2006

I suppose it would be hard to campus this one, huh?

By Steve Marr
From: Lakewood, Washington
Apr 1, 2007

Great route. A long sling is useful at the third bolt. The layback moves near the top will make you think.

By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Aug 16, 2007

I had a rope get stuck in the top of the finger crack after I had moved onto the final slab, it sucked, watch out. This is an excellent route.

By KeithRD
Sep 20, 2007

I also got the rope stuck in the crack on the top. I felt the tug from below just before I reached the anchor. Not fun, due caution. Probably due to the fact that I had no idea what I was doing at that point in my climbing....

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Dec 3, 2007
rating: 5.8+

A great 5.8 which feels a bit more traditional than others of the same grade in Rumney.

By BTodd
From: Croton, NY
May 26, 2008

My friend and I agreed that this is the best climb on this section of the wall, even better than lonesome dove (which gets all the stars in the book..I think)

By Jeffrey LeCours
May 27, 2008

Ultra fun 5.8!! but be wary of the crack near the top. Had watched rope get caught up twice within the hour.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 1, 2008
rating: 5.8+

This is my all time favorite 5.8 it cannot be beat. I do this everytime I in the area.

By Adrian Kostrubiak
From: Hanover, NH
Oct 20, 2009

I'll echo what others have said: watch your rope at the crux, as mine got stuck in that finger crack.
Otherwise, super fun and mellow route.