Getting ready to shoot for the shelf. Taken by Jef...
Description
This short climb may feel more reminiscent of a V4 boulder problem. Not coincidently, it is a popular first 5.12 for boulderers and young climbers.
This climb has a cruxy and memorable start that requires body tension and reachy oppositional side pulls. After sticking a deadpoint throw, the climbing becomes progressively easier.
Location
This route is at the left side of Left Jimmy Cliff. The start is marked by two counter-top sized slabs of rock that lie flat on the ground. Toprope and lower off of quickdraws clipped to the anchors whenever possible. Otherwise rappel off, or be lowered directly through the anchor.
Protection
3 bolts with two welded shut cold-shuts for an anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.
This is the only 5.12 I've done many times.... The opening moves are so cool and require such delicacy and attention to detail.... I feel like it is worth doing whenever I'm in the area.... If you haven't done it yet...do it today...ok, well it's like 15 degrees out right now so you are off the hook, but do it soon....
i took a run up this route today and found it still to be fun...it seems like a few holds have broken off, cause i had to change my beta from what ive done before... still felt 5.12a but slightly different...
By James Otey From: Canterbury, NH May 12, 2008 rating: 5.12a
Yeah when I climbed it last summer there was a slightly loose sidepull that seemed to be facing imminent demise. What it left was the same size, however, and didn't change the difficulty. I just love the opening moves- sequential and delicate.
i just got on this for the first time today! wicked fun! i got a little mentaly psyched out so i didnt sent but i got all the moves on it and i think it will go next time out :)
As a boulderer and timid leader new to the grade when I first climbed this, I osighted on TR and loved the climb. I came back the next day pumped to lead it. I was so excited that I stick clipped the first bolt, tied in and flashed to the anchors!
When I yelled take, I weighted the rope, and it didn't feel right. I looked down and noticed that I had tied into only my lower tie in point. I learned a valuable lesson without any pain or inverted falls. Don't get so excited for a climb you forget the basics.
I agree with all on this, really fun climb and a popular route for boulderers, with a wicked fun start. A good size reach helps too.
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