This route never gets the credit it deserves... It is short and doesn't look inviting but the moves are fun and it has a great flow...
Start on the left and hand traverse right to a jug...Make the second clip and get ready for some awesome moves...I won't give play by play beta but you head up and right using crimps and big slopers... Careful making the 3rd clip its a bad place to hit the ground...A heel toe cam helps on this clip...As you top out a few kneebars are possible...clip the quick clips and run another lap on it ...You will want to....
Location
Right in the middle of the cliff...Just right of Oby-won..
I just climbed this route today and I think that it does get the credit it deserves. I'm not so sure if I'll get on it again. Plus, you have a number of classic routes of the same grade just a bit up the hill...
(In the interest of full disclosure, I did get slapped around a bit on this.)
I've got to agree with Lee on this one. I thought the route was pretty cool even due to it's short length. The moves do flow pretty well, and it just seems to put your body where it should be. The route offers some variety in the style of moves and holds. Recomended.
Rock jerky? Its not too bad at all. If i remember correctly you can reach the first clip from the boulder. An attentive belayer or a stick clipped second bolt will sort that out, but the clipping stance for the second bolt was good too. Ive worked the route a lot and grew to love it (eventually) I never sent, but I thought it was an awesome little route, not sketchy fall potential and worth trying.
I stick clip the first 2 bolts cause the first one is right there and the second is still not too high... anyway the third bolt could be bad if you blew it so i do a toe hook or heel toe camish move with my left foot and get my right hand on the big shitty sloper up and right.... at that point you are locked in to make the clip and you just have a few more hard moves to the top... a nice kneebar at the end if you want it...
Darth Vader
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