the route climbs from the crack in the lower right...
Description
This is a really interesting and fun climb around the left corner of the Darth Vader Crag.... The protection can be a bit spicy at times, so I'm not surprised it sees little traffic...But if you are up to it, bring a small rack and have some fun....
I start by slinging a birch tree as high as I can to keep me from falling down the hill...Move right (toward the route Darth Vader (5.9) to gain a layback flake...use this to head back left and in to a balancy section through this you can protect with TCUs and finally a few hand crack moves.... The upper moves are very well protected its the lower stuff that's a bit dicey....
Location
Starts at a birch tree just up and around the corner on the left end of the crag....
Protection
Slings, nuts, TCUs and a gold Camalot should do it.... Oh, and as always, a cool head....
just noticed this route, (because of bolts) thought it remained a spicy route (the third bolt is well above the second) i thought it was excellent maybe one day i'll do it on gear!
By E thatcher From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH) Jun 17, 2009
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