My dad leading Yoda on a cold April day (you can't...
Description
Yoda is what I look for in a 5.9 sport climb, and is one of my favorite warm-ups... Also a very popular first 5.9 lead.... For a relatively short climb, you will get a great variety of movements and techniques out of it.... A steep, strong start leads to a great foot hold out right where you rest a minute and figure out this cruxy section (jamming and fingerlocking will help) as you get over the bulge, but most people just keep pulling till the angle eases up a bit.... A short slab leads to a crack finish up awesome super grippy rock....
There is often a line for this route...though it's worth the wait, you are at Rumney, there are tons of killer 5.9s out there... Climb a few and come back on the way out when the line is gone and the sunset light makes the view breathtaking....
Location
Left-most sport route at the crag....
Protection
6 bolts to quick clips...don't TR off the quickies, use some draws so the clips last longer....
By Jay Knower Administrator Jan 13, 2007 rating: 5.9
I just climbed this route the other day and was surprised to find the top part so difficult. I guess after all of the thugish climbing in this area, it just feels foreign to stand on your feet.
Darth Vader
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