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Jugline 

5.10b

   

FA: D Quinn
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10a/b [details]
Views: 118 page views

Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 25, 2007


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Description 

Located to the right of War and Peace (5.9+) this is (as the name points out) a juggy route that is fun but doesn't quite live up to the 4 star 5.10s farther left... No reason to avoid it however as it will give you that good old Bonsai feeling of climbing steep rock on good holds and we all know that classic is just slang for over crowded so as you wait for masterpiece to open up take a run up Jugline...

Climb the line of bolts just right of War and Piece... Climb up the steep wall starting on super jugs then a somewhat tricky section either use worse holds directly or better ones slighty right... The climbing eases up and you will be useing your mind more than your muscles to the quick clips... There are a couple ways to gain the quick clips i found staying right to be the line of least resistance...


Location 

Just right of War and Piece...


Protection 

8 bolts to anchors



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By Jeffrey LeCours
Jul 5, 2008
CONDITION REPORT 

Since the fires, this route collects a lot of soot. Yesterday I saw a climber cruise up it and come down with black pants and hands.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Aug 25, 2007
rating: 5.10a

It may also be worth noting that the final few moves to the chains may challenge those with a phobia of crack climbing.