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Social Climber 

5.11b

   

FA: Mack Johnson 6/88
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 127 page views

Submitted By: lee hansche on May 19, 2007


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Me, looking up at the super tricky upper crux of s...


Description 

Start up Social Outcast (5.12a/b) to the rest ledge on the left passing a few bolts.... That section is the power crux... sit at the rest and get recharged for the technical crux while looking up and wondering how you will pull it off.... Clip a pin from the ledge with a long sling climb up and place a small cam in the crack in the roof (I seem to remember it being finger-size).... Head up and right under the roof awkwardly to clip another bolt and a few more moves on small crimps and a pocket to the chains....

I tried this climb on a damp day, but I can't blame my failure on that.... I really couldn't figure out the moves and didn't see many holds at all on the upper crux.... I was convinced that a key hold must have broken, but now I think I might just have to get back and figure it out....
I look forward to getting back on it, but any beta that could be added to this description would be appreciated....

I will be trying again soon, and I will update this description if I figure anything out....


Location 

Start up Social Outcast (5.12a/b) to the rest ledge. Step left an go up under the steep roof trending right and clip the chains....


Protection 

4 bolts a pin 1 or 2 pieces of gear to chains....
when i did it i used a yellow and a blue TCU one or the other would likely be fine but why not double up when you got em...



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Me, on the only good hold on the upper crux which happens to be a crimp/pinch on a roof but due to the slab feet under you it gives a little rest...

Me, on the only good hold on the upper crux which ...


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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 20, 2007

It seems like that the trick to this climb is trying not to hit the rest ledge if you fall once you enter the top corner/crux(es)

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 20, 2007

Yeah, I thought about that, but if you have good gear, it shouldn't be an issue....

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 1, 2008

update: i went back and sent it...

I do love the obscure rumney trad routes... The wetness was a key factor on the first attempt but also i just needed to be ready to go for it and not back down... its very insecure and mentally challenging the real key is motivation...

Spoiler alert:
From the ledge i palmed the roof with my left hand while smearing my feet up the steep slab and moving the palm up the roof till i could gain an undercling in the corner... This is an OK hold and i clipped from here however i could have clipped more confidently if i did one more move to a pretty good hold on the roof, a crimpy pinch thing... From here it eases up on the brain but its still not easy... Reach right to a couple of crimps and a pocket, smear those feet higher and reach for the top...