Nick on Centerpiece (Red Helmet). Upon lowering he...
Description
This is one of the best routes on this cliff (my personal favorite at the moment).... The line is consistently steep and pumpy, but if you get to know it well you can dial it in and avoid the pump....
You start up a steep wall with incut holds that are better than they look from the ground.... You gain a ledge that's not as good as it looks.... Move to the right a little here if this spot is wet...a few slopers lead to a pretty good rest...move back to the left and up good holds to the top...Careful foot work will get you through here if the pump is catching up with you...Top out and do a few easy moves to the anchor....
Location
This route is the next one left of Masterpiece (5.10a) finishes to the right of the BIG roof of Noodle (5.12b).
This really is a great climb, don't be lulled by the grade it is pumpy and not a good warm-up (flash-pump for sure)for Social or any of the other 12s on this wall.
it took me a while but i warm up quite nicely on this one these days... but then again just up the hill folks are warming up on Techno and Whiptide i guess its all relative... either way this is one of the best 5.10ds ive climbed...
Fun the whole way up. Love this climb... but have been greeted by wasps buzzing in some of the holds just before the anchors the past few times I've climbed this.
setting the record straight. I bolted the first half of this route rope solo one rainy day and never got back to finish the job. Scott Stevenson called me one day and asked about when I was going to finish it. I said I didn't know and that he should go for it. So he did. FA goes to Scott.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
