The unmistakable arete of Social Outcast can be seen from most points at or near Bonsai. Social offers steep climbing on mostly big holds.
Begin with a hard sequence to gain the first jug on the route. Many people stick clip the second bolt as the first bolt is of the ring variety and of dubious strength. Boulder a few moves on huge holds and climb slightly up until you can rest at a no-hands stance.
From the rest, move right onto the arete proper. The big holds continue up the arete. Most people top out to the right and then walk left to clip the chains. The left, more direct, exit is harder and a bit less fun.
Social is a popular first 5.12. The moves are fun, easy to work, and the falls are clean.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 4, 2007 rating: 5.12a
No fear, the top out holds out right are huge, although the pinch for you left hand for the setup for the move is exactly where the in-place draw hangs (a little annoying, but more importantly it is painful if you forget to move your hand and hang at that draw)
When I climbed the topout on this route (also my first lead 5.12 outside) I used a heelhook out right in addition to the pinch that you were talking about - it helps stabilize going for the last hold. Overall - the route is a classic!
P.S. People over 6' 0" - can reach the first jug from the ground
Bonsai
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