BETA PHOTO: The freshly cleaned and super fun Suicide Kings 5....
Description
I admit that some of the routes I've cleaned at Rumney amount to licking the bottom of the ice cream bowl... Though i enjoy them they hadn't been missed they were just waiting for someone who cared... This one I feel has Much more to offer the average climber... It is now the second best line on this rock and worth doing for sure either as a trad route a top rope or a moderate high ball problem with the hardest moves happening in the 1st 15 feet...
Climb the crack and ramp system up and left to a stance where you can place good gear and execute the fun top out...
Video link:
Location
As you walk in to the black jacks look behind the Umbrella Traverse boulder there are a couple of nasty old bolts on a blank face this route climbs an angling crack that follows a narrow ramp... Pretty obvious when you see it...
I used a hand sized piece in a funky but good spot about 10 feet up, a maybe #6 or #7 nut at about half way, and a red tcu worked perfectly just before the top... There are other options for sure, i aided up a ways when cleaning it and i got about 7 pieces in the first half of the route :)
lee i havent checked this out yet the day i planned on it got rained out and i havent gotten over here with the trad rack yet but before the snow falls for sure. the crux is at the bottom right?
yup... crux in the first 10 ft or so... try to eye the gear from the ground as much as you can... the top out is easier to the left... have fun and tell me how it goes...
RSS Feed
