Black Jack Crack is the best trad route at Rumney. Never mind that some people boulder the thing.
Locate the 30 foot tall splitter crack on the west face of the huge boulder. Follow the crack through various sizes to a crux at the top. Though it receives a boulder rating of V2, most people prefer to bring gear rather than face the offensive possibilty of a 30 foot grounder at the crux.
Protection
The route is well protected with small to medium cams. If you should choose to boulder it, bring as many pads as you can find, and for the love of God, don't fall.
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