Scattered in the woods at the base of the hill, the Black Jack boulders offer some classic problems on great stone. The boulders start near the road and extend uphill almost to Waimea.
This area is complex as boulders lean upon boulders and caves abound. Take some time and explore this area and you will surely find some hidden classics as well as some first ascent potential. Must do problems include, but are not limited to: Zig Zag Crack V1, Umbrella Traverse V2, Black Jack Crack V2x, Spraguesorus V5, Pyramid Power V7, Satan on a Halfshell V10, and Satan's Choice V11.
The Black Jacks can be blissful on dry winter days, or torturous in the heat of summer. Since most of the boulders sit on or near lowlying marsh land, bug season arrives with a vengence in the Black Jacks.
Getting There
Park in the lot. DO NOT PARK ALONG THE ROAD. Walk along the road to telephone pole 37 and follow a well-worn trail uphil into the woods. At the first big boulder you see, follow the trail left, through the Black Jacks.
Black Jack Crack is the best trad route at Rumney. Never mind that some people boulder the thing.Locate the 30 foot tall splitter crack on the west face of the huge boulder. Follow the crack through various sizes to a crux at the top. Though it receives a boulder rating of V2, most people prefer to bring gear rather than face the offensive possibilty of a 30 foot grounder at the crux....[more]