The beginning of this one is a bit squeezed in but contains a few fun moves that are not used otherwise... After the crux its just a walk up the super moderate slab to the chains...
Start as for Bullwinkle Craters (5.11b) for a few steep jug moves with one really cool hold... Pull the tricky move on to the slab then 5.3ish climbing brings you to the left end of the upper deck of New Wave Wall... As mark commented, you can run this route in to Air and Pleasant Danger (5.8) for a longer climb... Use a 70m rope if you do this and plan to come all the way back to the ground...
Location
Starting on the same holds as Bullwinkle Craters head up and left out the roof...
Protection
4 bolts to anchor...
If you run it in to Air and Pleasant Danger you will have to run out some easy vegetated slab to get to the goods on that route...
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Aug 16, 2007 rating: 5.10a/b
Either I did this route completely wrong the other day, or the grade is off, but it felt a number grade harder than the description implies. Nevertheless, a fun route with great slab climbing above.
Below the New Wave
RSS Feed
