The beginning of this one is a bit squeezed in but contains a few fun moves that are not used otherwise... After the crux its just a walk up the super moderate slab to the chains...
Start as for Bullwinkle Craters (5.11b) for a few steep jug moves with one really cool hold... Pull the tricky move on to the slab then 5.3ish climbing brings you to the left end of the upper deck of New Wave Wall... As mark commented, you can run this route in to Air and Pleasant Danger (5.8) for a longer climb... Use a 70m rope if you do this and plan to come all the way back to the ground...
Location
Starting on the same holds as Bullwinkle Craters head up and left out the roof...
Protection
4 bolts to anchor...
If you run it in to Air and Pleasant Danger you will have to run out some easy vegetated slab to get to the goods on that route...
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Aug 16, 2007 rating: 5.10a/b
Either I did this route completely wrong the other day, or the grade is off, but it felt a number grade harder than the description implies. Nevertheless, a fun route with great slab climbing above.
Wish I read the description first... now I want to run this out to Air and Pleasant Danger. :) Think I could lower to the (ledge) anchors of Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic to re-tie with a 60m rope?
I dunno, Mark, Ward did not seem soft at all to me when I saw him last (this Fall). I can go along with a grade of 10a. Face it, you (and I) aren't best at differentiating between 9+ and 10a. 10a is nice though, one more point for me the next time I do my Rumney "circuit".
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