I have mixed feelings about the bolting of this route. Though it has been led a bunch of times on gear, it would be rare to see anyone on this before it was bolted. One good thing about its bolting is that it dissipates some of the traffic from nearby Couch Potato. Sure if this were in a more traditional area, its bolts would be blasphemous, but I think the line blurs a bit at Rumney, for better or for worse.
I might be worried about the bolts if this climb was in the same league as Black Jack Crack. It is what it is and since I wouldn't drag my trad gear to Rumney for this climb, I wouldn't have done it otherwise. Fun and worth doing. Good moves.
Good point. This thing is far from classic. Also of note is Black Dog crack on New Wave. This route was retrobolted and now gets climbed a lot. I think schist is pretty dodgy for trad climbs anyway, unless, of course we're talking about the few splitters in the area (5.8 Crack, Black Jack, and Journey). These splitters of course take good gear, but I would be really skeptical of any other trad route at Rumney.
An ugly chossy trad route before it was bolted and cleaned. Short, but has some fun moves. If only it could be stacked on top of Couch Potato. A stick clip or good spot is recommended.
Below the New Wave
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