As i was lowering off of Scene of the Crime (5.10a) the other day i noticed a direct line straight out the roof and up to the chains that i hadn't noticed before... I took note that a red or orange TCU would protect the upper crux section... I had no idea if it had been done before but i thought I'd give it a go... Today I climbed the variation and it was super cool with a few fun moves that keep you on your toes... I asked a guy at the crag that seemed like he had been around a while if the line had been done before and he informed me that he did the first ascent of it in the 80's... How weird is that, he just happened to be there... Anyway he gave me the name of the route and his name and told me that it was in the first Rumney guide book (which he wrote) as 5.11a, i told him that i agreed with the grade and that was that...
Sorry if that was a boring story here is the description you were looking for...
Climb through the crux of Scene of the Crime (5.10a) till you get to the roof where that route breaks right... clip a long draw on the fourth bolt and break through the roof on small holds and sinking your fingers in to an unlikely slot in the face (this is where you want to protect)... get your feet up on to the face and make one or two delicate moves on tiny holds to latch the top... Mantel and clip...
If you don't care to lead it, it would be a nice top rope variation...
Location
This is a direct finish to Scene of the Crime 5.10a... climb that route to the roof and continue out the roof to the top...
Protection
4 bolts and one piece in a slot on the above the roof... i was able to put in an orange and a red TCU in the same spot but one or the other would do fine...
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 24, 2008
I've done this one as well, it is kinda nice, flows decent and follows a more direct line to the anchors, although I don't know about the leading potential since I've only TRed it after doing scene of the crime.
Armed and Dangerous area (Main Cliff Left)
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