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Armed and Dangerous area (Main Cliff Left)
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Anchovy Caper, The 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication 
Big Easy, The 
Bourbon Street 
Brendans Bitches 
Cereal Killer 
Clusterphobia 
Green Mile 
Juicy Fingers 
Maria's Variation 
Men In White Suits 
Metamorphosis 
Rainbow 
Scene of the Crime 
Sesame Street 
Slack 
Toxic Gumbo 

The Big Easy 

5.7

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 2 pitches
Views: 106 page views

Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 29, 2007


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Description 

Pitch one: is a fun ramble up moderate rock... The first few moves will make you look like a super star without too much effort thanks to the super jugs on the steep rock... A few interesting moves after that but mostly jug hauling to a nice ledge with an anchor...
Pitch two: If you chose to continue your journey you have a few options... Both options start with heading up and left through a notch at about 5.7... To keep it moderate go left to the sesame street anchor (this pitch is short but has few cool moves) for option B (Bourbon Street 5.10c) follow the bolts above you after the notch and expect a 5.10 crux to gain a bolted slab that takes you to the top...It looks like a few holds have broken from the upper part i dont know if they broke before or after it was bolted....


Location 

Just right of sesame street (5.10c) start on steep somewhat dirty but juggy rock...


Protection 

10 bolts to 1st anchor anchor... 60m rope is a good idea i think...



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By M Sprague
Nov 26, 2007

The second pitch of this route starts off of the Sesame Street anchors and is very easy, but has not been cleaned and has a large loose flake on it that needs to be removed, hence the red tag. If doing this part, you can climb to the Sesame anchors as 1 pitch, skipping the belay on the ledge. The intention is to link this into the top pitch of Slick, which climbs the white buttress at the top of the cliff, eventually resulting in a three pitch 5.8+ that goes from the very bottom to very top of the cliff.