Lindsay Duca stylin' through the crux of Armed and...
Description
A Rumney classic that deserves a spot on every 5.10 climbers tick list.... Most commonly referred to as just "Armed and Dangerous" minus the long-winded, second half of the name, it is the center piece of its crag and for good reason.... Varied climbing from technical, slabby, face climbing to a super cool, steep, jug haul that can give some exposure for its relatively small size.... If you pump out, fear not the falls are all air as you climb out the intimidating exit moves....
To the right of the start of Cereal Killer (5.11c, which climbs out of the cave at the cliff base) you will start up easier rock to a line of bolts on a slab surmounting a few bulges these moves, not the steeps at the top are the true crux of the route.... At the top of the slab, take a rest and look up at the looming steepness.... Move quickly through this part, as it can sap one's energy fast.... After the steep stuff is over, good holds lead up and left to anchors.... Armed and Dangerous tends to dry quickly so most non-rainy days it is in good condition....
The very top of the climb has been changed to make room for another route to the right. This doesn't take away from the route's quality and its new neighbor is yet another fun 5.10....
Location
Middle of the cliff, up slabs and a steep roofish section at the top.... Right of Cereal Killer (5.11c)....
Protection
10 bolts to anchor.
Add PhotoPhotos of Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication
Lindsay Duca climbing the upper headwall on Armed ...
Add CommentComments on Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication
Show which comments —
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Mar 24, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Hands down, one of the best 10s at Rumney. As a side note, the new route to the right of Armed and Dangerous, though not official yet, has been named "Clusterphobia" and is 11a.
Clusterphobia is very fun for sure.... I had heard 5.10d, but I wouldn't argue with either grade....
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 3, 2007 rating: 5.10b
If you are with someone that will be toproping the climb several times you should climb up and right to anchors of clusterphobia, it is a straighter line so the pendulum won't be so bad if they fall. Also remember to put in some directionals on the overhanging section, so they can get back on.
For a little adventure, continue climbing past the top of Armed and Dangerous. A variety of paths can be taken, 5.7-5.8, for another pitch. Walk-off to the left.
Armed and Dangerous area (Main Cliff Left)
RSS Feed
