So when i started leading trad climbs i climbed every moderate trad route i could find so i could practice placing gear and get used to trusting it... Not all the routes rate high on the quality scale but i found them to be helpful... This one is actually very cool but i didn't rate it highly due to the fact that it traverses under a few popular routes and people would be likely to give you some mumbles and grumbles (if not worse) if you did it on a busy day... However if you are a practicing trad leader and find yourself all alone at this crag you might enjoy a run on this one...
Many bolts have been added since i climbed it so trad gear might not be needed at all anymore on the first pitch but i think a few hand sized cams could be helpful on the traverse crack...
Pitch 1: Climb up the start of metamorphosis which is retrobolted... Where that route goes right you want to follow a hand crack left under clusterphobia (bolts added for this route might help you a bit) follow the crack left past Armed and Dangerous to a nice ledge where you can belay... I wouldn't be surprised if bolt anchors are up there now... rap off or do the second pitch...
Pitch 2: Unless someone has cleaned it up this pitch was adventurous at best... You head up and right on fun climbing to an old rap anchor which was in rough shape when i did it but that was years ago... I decided to continue up the slab above on a scary lichen adventure with little gear this slab was not in the guide book description so i dont know the exact grade... I'd say scary 5.7...
Again it has been a while since I've been up there so i dont know if it has been cleaned or bolted or what... If anyone knows the current state of this section of cliff please comment and i will update this info...
Location
Start up Metamorphosis then break left under Clusterphobia and Armed and Dangerous
Protection
lots of bolts these days but a few hand sized cams might help the unsteady leader... if you do the second pitch small nuts and cams will be handy...
The second pitch may get an anchor so people don't have to disturb the top of the cliff, but it looks to me to be a nice easy trad route with lots of options for gear. It could use a once over though for loose stuff, so be careful, especially as many people hang out below.
i think it may have been a little poor route finding on my part that made the top pitch scary but i wouldn't trade that experience for a comfortable one...
Armed and Dangerous area (Main Cliff Left)
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