A really cool climb that didn't see much traffic until it was fully bolted, and it still doesn't.... A long route with a few cruxes that test you in different ways it will keep you on your toes....
Start at the birch tree on the ledge about 15 feet up, to the right of Metamorphosis (5.8+).... Climb the cracks (used to be protected with gear) to a steep face with a few hard moves that get you to a ledge rest.... Continue up over another steep part though not as hard as the last.... The final section surprised and scared me the first time I did it, 'cause I was in Rumney mode and all of the sudden I was looking at thin awkward moves on to a slab with few actual holds. Once I got in to Whitehorse mode, I was cool and did the few moves to the chains....
If the crowds are swarming around the other 10s in the area this route is typically still lonely, so give it some loving when you get the chance....
Location
Start at the birch tree on the ledge about 15 feet up, to the right of Metamorphosis (5.8+).
Protection
8 bolts to chains.... 60M rope needed to lower....
Worthy of more ascents. Airy and long for a sport route. A 70m rope is nice if belaying from the ground, though a 60 will just get you down if the belayer scramble up a couple moves. Knot the rope! If you approach the last bolt from the left, you will find the going much easier.
I did this route not long ago...was thinking I had never done it before. Only when I lowered off and pulled the rope did I realize that I had climbed it four years before. I absolutely loved it both times; it's long and full-value - runout on easy ground and adventurous the whole way! It's got to be my favorite 10c at Rumney.
Armed and Dangerous area (Main Cliff Left)
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