This is another retrobolted route that is now seeing traffic.... Originally done on sketchy gear, it wasn't even in the guidebook.... Though not as classic as its neighbor to the left (Armed and Dangerous 5.10b), it is well worth doing and though it's a little squeezed in (as the name suggests) it will thin the crowds at this popular spot....
Climb the line of weakness to the right of Armed and Dangerous, following Metamorphosis (5.8+), then heading straight up the steep wall above to the old anchors of Armed and Dangerous.... Big moves on good holds for the most part and nice clean falls.... So have fun....
Not retroed, to my knowledge, though it most likely was top roped on since A&D was put in, as it runs directly to the old anchors.
Somewhat chossy, but fun steep flakes and pockets. ..a bit height dependent
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Nov 11, 2007 rating: 5.10d
I took a bit of an unexpected whipper on this climb Saturday... A foothold about the size of Nalgene exploded off the cliff while I was using it to pull the upper lip, I don't think it changes the climb at all as it was off right a bit an into the rotten rock, apparently.
Armed and Dangerous area (Main Cliff Left)
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