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Armed and Dangerous area (Main Cliff Left)
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Scene of the Crime 

5.10a

   

FA: Tom Bowker 1990
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 1 pitch
Views: 178 page views

Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 17, 2007


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lily chilling after making the crux reach on Scene...


Description 

A very enjoyable climb and a good first climb of the grade for those breaking in to 5.10s.... There are two cruxes, the first steep and a little pumpy the next techy and footworky....

Starting on the left end of the cave climb up directly on steep rock or step off a boulder to reach good holds.... A few of the key holds on the first part are a bit hidden, so if you feel like it's too hard for the grade you might be right.... Continue up and right to a good rest stance, then around the corner and left on to balancy moves (past a loose hold that just won't come all the way out...yet) and on to the Quick clips....

Enjoy.


Location 

On the left side of the cave, the next route left of Cereal Killer (5.11c)....


Protection 

5 bolts to quick clips....
Stick clip the first bolt....



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lily on the tricky low angle upper crux...

lily on the tricky low angle upper crux...


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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 30, 2007
rating: 5.10b

I've always done this route without the holds in the crack out to the left, I always felt like I was doing 11- moves with compression moves.

It is a cool variation to not use the jugs out left.

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 30, 2007

i always felt that not using the holds to the left messed up the flow of the route and made the moves feel forced and awkward... i never did this variation on purpose but messed it up the first time i climbed it...

i tend to leave the eliminates for the gym... but each to there own...

By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Jan 11, 2008

The hold Lee is talking about is kind of hidden off to the left and for me it makes the difference between a really fun, somehwat casual climb and a pretty big, but still exciting slap in the face.