Wickedly-pumpy jug-hauling out the roof start, big moves and swollen forearms.... This leads to a weird mantel into a little, not-too-comfy nook capped with another roof move, but do not despair, this is the last hard move on the route.... After mantling, follow the bolts up the 5.8 slab to the chains....
A really fun climb, though if power and reach are against you, it might be more challenging.... I found it to be pretty easy when I was climbing and training in the gym a lot, but now that I've gone all techy it is tough....
Location
Starting on the usually well-chalked holds on the right-hand side of the cave and traversing up and left along the roof.... The start may be wet from seepage....
It is not a bad idea to preplace the first few draws if you have a stick clip. The stone on the ground is very close. An attentive belayer is a must. A very fun route requiring burl and balance
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Aug 30, 2007
I agree with Mark, I've seen someone dropped by their belayer right onto that rock!