Pumping through the middle jugs on this varied rou...
Description
What a great climb... I can't get on it enough... If you are looking for a project at this grade or just looking to warm up before a day of hard projecting, this is a must do....
The route climbs the 45 degree overhang with killer huecos, then breaks right on to the vertical crimp fest, you cant miss it....
Start up the short slab and on to the steep inverted hueco covered face. Move quickly and fight the pump, because you need to make a move to the right to gain a crimpy face and it can be a pumpy experience if you wear out your arms on the first section.... On the top section, sequence is important so plan ahead...and have fun....
Location
Right in the middle of the Apocalypse area, can't miss it....
Protection
6 bolts to quick clips...The quick clips are placed back from the edge to make you work for it....
Apocalypse is one of my favorite routes at Rumney. It's a neat little area, sort of tucked away. On chilly days the face is drenched in sunshine. The route is the best of both worlds, long moves up steep rock at the bottom, then you pull onto the face and suddenly you're scrambling for technique. Apparently there used to be a big foot before the transition so you could grab a rest before the face climbing, but no more. If you called it 11d, I wouldn't argue.
Actually, there still is a really good rest before the face section in the form of a kneebar. It's pumpy for your left leg and core, but gives your fingers a much needed break before the crimping begins.
It's been a looooong time since I've been on this route, but I seem to remember a shallow mono-undercling on the face around the last or 2nd to last bolt. Is that still correct or was my beta all wrong?
Tom you are totally correct.. there is a nice undercling on the face.. I use it with my thumb to shake out my right arm before tackling the last few moves to the anchors... its a wild rest!
in addition to the knee bar rest a friend and i discovered a nice bat-hang which is fun and less painful on the leg than the knee bar... what... i just like bat-hangs OK...
Indeed the bat-hang is fun to do. A little spicy on lead, but awesome. Its more of a novelty rest as it requires you to downclimb a couple moves to get back on route. Whatever- go for it!