A super committing lead on very small gear for the first 40-50 feet.... Most people toprope it, and it's probably a good thing cause not everyone has the skills and cool head that is required to climb a hard R rated route like this.... I worked it out on toprope first, then led it with one piece of gear (a purple TCU) and a few draws for the bolts at the top.... I hear the TCU is bomber, but I don't wish to test it....
Starting to the right of the classic, Romancing the Stone (5.10c), climb the face on tiny crimps eventually meeting up with Romancing at its right trending traverse, at which point you will have some bolts to clip.... Crimpy crimpy....
Location
Climb the face just right of Romancing the Stone (5.10c)....
Protection
A few draws and small gear, I used a purple TCU in a letter box slot about half way up the face section.... I hear you can get other stuff in too, such as micro wires, but I didn't see them....
C3's work great on this route. And, there's a good C3 placement up at the top (once you're in the Romancing the Stone traverse), so you can lead this without clipping any bolts at all and still stay safe at the top.
5.8 Crag
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