One if the best climbs at the crag move for move.... The climbing is interesting and exciting, and the gear is good enough where you need it.... I think it is more PG13 than R, but the guidebook says R due to a recorded ground fall, so I will too.... Not as scary as Blue Balls at Christmas.... So, you follow interesting moves up a flake and out left to a letter box slot (protect with TCU) climbing to the crux in the upper third of the route.... A pretty big move to a good crimpy hold with a small(I use a #7 stopper I think) but solid nut at your waist.... You can prolly get away with smaller crimpy moves too.... Climb it on TR first if you are not totally solid in the grade, because it is a little spicy....
Location
Just right of Romancing the Stone is a left-facing corner with cracks in it.... Climb this to a stance on a ledge and continue up a right facing flake and follow the weakness to a 2 bolt anchor....
Protection
A few nuts and TCUs or Aliens.... I worked out gear on TR, so I could pre-rack....
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Mar 3, 2007
The route is to the RIGHT of Romancing the Stone, and yes, the gear is more PG13 than R, but should be approached with certain caution due to the friable nature of Schist. Why this route hasn't been bolted yet is beyond me!
Please don't bolt this route.... It's nice to know that with a small rack and a cool head there are routes you don't have to wait in line for on a busy day....
I agree with Lee: it would be tragic to lose the special character of the route to someone's bolting fantasy. If it's too scary for some on lead, what is so inadequate about a lap on toprope? This is, in my opinion, the best route on the wall - don't bolt it!!!
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