The business of Arm and Hammer is definitely crimps, however a the slabby exit moves will be memorable nonetheless. Some of the hardest moves are right off the ground, so stick clip that first bolt!
Location
This route is at the far right end of 5.8 Crag. If hiking down from the left end of Main Cliff, Arm and Hammer is the second bolted line you come to.
By chris deulen From: Portland, ME Apr 28, 2009 rating: 5.11d
There is no way on God's green earth that this thing is 11b! If Tropicana is 11a, this thing is at least 11d. Maybe bc the FA was in 1988? Not sure, but way harder than the suggested grade. I've been on 12s easier than this thing. That said, the movement on this route is amazing and fun.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Apr 28, 2009
I heard that something broke on this. I haven't been on it in a couple of years (and at that time 11b felt right). Does anyone have more info about a possible broken hold?
Ive done it every year for the last 5, 6, 7 years and didnt notice any change... but yeah you do have to work for it mostly down low on the micro crimps... and i havent done it this year yet so we shall see...
The hold that was used to clip the first bolt broke off a few years ago (see obvious dark spot directly below first bolt). It was much better than the micro crimps afforded now, and served as a much better lock off point to the next moves, as well as a better foothold.
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