5.8 Crag

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Description 

5.8 Crag is a somewhat shady crag at the base of Rattlesnake Mountain that is visible from the road. Due to its proximity to the road, 5.8 Crag is well traveled and popular with large groups of topropers. The Main Cliff and the upper crags are also easily reached via a "secret" (sshhh!) trail that ascends from the far right end of this crag, making 5.8 Crag a good choice for the cranksters who want to warm up en route to the "proj."

Those hoping 5.8 Crag will live up to its name will not be disappointed, however about half of climbs here range from 5.10 to 5.12. If approaching from the road, the first route you will see is Romancing The Stone (5.10c), which ascend to the right of a blunt arete before launching into a pumpy traverse and overhanging jug haul.

The gently overhanging wall to the right of Romancing The Stone is home to the wall's only 5.12 and a side-by-side set of 5.11s. For the most part the climbs become progressively less steep and easier as you move left of Romancing the Stone. Notable climbs here include a 5.7 hand crack that is protected with gear and two 5.8s that have one or two interesting moves.

Getting There 

Park at either lot (but never on the road!) and walk down the road with the Baker River on your left. After the road bends right, you will see an obvious trail on the right hand side of the road. At the mouth of this trail you should see an engraved wooden sign that says "5.8 Crag." Walk up the trail past this sign and viola, there you are.

The Classics

Featured Route For 5.8 Crag

Romancing the Stone 5.10c  NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag

Romancing the Stone is the most distinguishable climbs at 5.8 Crag, as is follows the first line you see as you approach the cliff. The first third of the climb is characterized by technical 5.10 face climbing that is punctuated by an exit move on the "romancing stone," an brick sized tooth that has been wobbly for as long as anyone can remember. In the immortal advice of Tenacious D, use this hold "gently." A rest of sorts can be found before la...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of 5.8 Crag Slideshow

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Jeff on the popular, Romancing the Stone 5.10c	BETA PHOTO: a map of the middle buttress of 5.8 crag...	BETA PHOTO: A map of the right (harder) side of 5.8 Crag...
BETA PHOTO: i left out a couple linkups and obscurities but he...