Rumney

I left 2 leaverbiners on the anchor of Underdog today as a temporary courtesy/peace of mind to all other climbers. The drop-ins are heinously unsafe (read: nearly worn through) and need to be replaced PRONTO before someone takes the ultimate ride. I don't frequent Rumney enough to have enough forethought to take care of this myself, so if someone who is there a lot could take care of it that'd be greatly appreciated by all, I'm sure. That route is far too popular for this to go unnoticed any longer.

Thank you Chris for raising the awareness level on this pressing issue.

Last year, I left biners on Masterpiece's anchors for the same reason (one quick clip was more than halfway thru). I posted a warning on the other NE climbing board about Underdog's anchors just last week.

Someone connected with the Rumney Climbers Association responded in short order to my post, stating the intent to replace worn quick clips on popular routes before the end of this year's climbing season.

The plan that most people advocate is to replace quick clips with links, 2 links per anchor/hanger. Links make it less tempting to TR directly through the anchors than drop-in quick clips.

Well, I suppose I spoke too soon...someone removed the two biners I left at the top of Underdog. I guess a couple of cheap wiregates were worth more than their safety and piece of mind.

Today I was outraged to watch as an ignorant redneck threw a half-full Redbull can from his pickup truck at a climber's face....the climber was a nice, unsuspecting dude walking well off the road....
He only sustained a cut on his chin, but WTF? I never thought I'd see that on Buffalo Rd....
We were unable to get the plate number on the truck...bummer....

Hi !
Were from Quebec and we want to make a trip to Rumney 1 week. We do 5.8 5.9 in sport climbing. 5.7 in trad.
Do you think Rumney is too much difficult... Do you have some suggestion... And we dont find any guidebook about Rumney !

Thanks for your help !
Have a nice climb :)

Basilisk has scanned Schist Another Hangout, the old guidebook for Rumney. You can download it here.

in the getting there description it says that ward smiths guide is a must. i kinda disagree with that for 2 reasons. one is that the guide is near impossible to get now adays til the new one comes out. and 2 is that most everytime ive been to rumney i havent had a guide and i have always found a local willing to let me take a peek at theirs... for the most part rumney locals are extremely kind and willing to share info! :)

These days id say Mountainproject is a must since this is the best guide to rumney!!! :)

I had my hands on a draft of the new guide book this past weekend. Ward was just rechecking a few of the new routes. I heard a time frame of going to the printers within the next 4 weeks. Keep your fingers crossed. It looks good. New routes and areas and your favorite hard send has been downrated, lol

New owner's of Mountain Pine's Campground Scott and Lisa would like to welcome rock climber's for the 2009 season. This year is off to a great start for Rumney Rocks. Mountain Pine's Campground is opened from April 1st to November 1st 2009. Come camp along the Baker River after a long day climbing. Water, electric, and bathrooms. Private sites with fire pit, picnic table. Located at 2759 Rte 25 Rumney. Reservations recommended but not required. Web site www.mountainpinescampground.webs.com. Rates are awesome for this area $25.00 per night for 2 adults. Group rates available. Call Lisa for more information at 603-786-9955. Mountain Pine's campground is a great place to meet other rock climber's. Hope to see you there!

We climbed Rumney last month and loved it! I have to say that the best part of the weekend stay (other than climbing) was camping at Mountain Pine's Campground. It's only about a mile away from the climbs and the owners are amazing. We were there Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Friday's weather was beautiful, as was Saturday until it started to pour Saturday night. We would have been soaked if the owners hadn't stopped by and put up a canopy so that we could finish cooking dinner. They also wheeled down a whole bunch of fire wood to keep us warm. That's unheard of where I come from. Cheers to the owners!

From climber1949 on: July 20, 2009, 11:34:18 AM:

There is now a small climbing shop at the Tenney mountain Ski Area, they carry petzl, harness, helmets, ropes, biners, draws etc and they have climbing shoes and helmets for rent. There is also a cool zipline canopy tour and mountainside yurts for rent! 888-289-1020 http://whitemountainexploration.com

Mountain Pine's Campground would like to thank all rock climber's for being patient while we built our bath house. I'm pleased to announce that you can now take a hot shower after a long day climbing. This Labor Day weekend I have plenty of sites along the Baker River no Reservations needed! Directions to campground exit 26 stay on Tenney Mountain Highway to the rotary then bare right on Route 25 go approx. 4 miles past Polar Caves campground on right. If you see the rest area you have gone to far. There is a sign on mail box Mountain Pine's Campground 2759 Route 25 Rumney NH 03266 603-786-9955. Lisa

Until the guide comes out the maps ive been posting can serve as a "Ghetto Guide"... Here is a link to a forum where ive posted the 30+ maps ive put up so far... Print em out and at least you will know most of what is there and how hard it is...


http://www.mountainproject.com/v/eastern_states/rumney_guide>>>>>

Considering replacing some top anchors next time im up as alot of these are worn through. What would be the accepted variety to use? aregular screw link on a hanger, Or a setup similar to Fixe.

I thing the best thing to put woud be rap rings so people dont top rope of them as much so they wont wear out as fast. it will be very appreciaed if you do change/fix the worn gear we need more people like you.

Hell ive left 4 binders up there already to lower off. Would a 1/2 screw link and a new hanger be sufficient? Although i think quick clips would be a bit easier on some of the harder clips.

Half inch quicklinks work great. 3/8" is fine for the top ones if you want to save a little. The 1/2" ones take the wear much better. I wouldn't bother with stainless steel quicklinks...no real need here. Just make sure to put 2 on each hanger so the rope will run correctly. Spray them with some grey or black rustolium to take the shine off while you have them at home. I like them better than quickclips for the reason mentioned before; less of an urge to directly TR through them.

Are the quick clips removable from the repel ring or do i need a new hanger

would a 3/8 stainless or 7/16 plated be sufficient?
something like these http://www.fixehardware.com/screw_links_oval.htm

I have always been under the impression that 3/8 or bigger and steel is the best bet, i did a little reading and it didn't say anything about stainless vs plated, so I am not sure about that. Anyone else have anything to add? JComeau thank you for the effort you are putting into this, we need more people in the climbing community who are willing to help out.

For me its simple. I climb there. I enjoy the place. I may not climb the hardest routes, but part of its mine and ito me its part of climbing there. Take care of it and it will last. No free rides for me. I dont mind putting in a little effort to pay back the oppurtunity to cimb there.

You have inspired me I am going to be looking into fixing some anchors to, Just know we all appreciate the work you are will to put in to benefit everyone else thank you

Not a problem. Its only fair. You cant take it for granted. So many times i see when somone brings to somones attention, yet do not act on it themselves for what ever reason.

Please folks, be courteous and clean your tick marks when you are finished. It DOES degrade other peoples experience.

Hi! I left a black northface primaloft jacket along with a food bag at the base of cereal killer (armed and dangerous wall) on sunday. When I returned to retrieve it, it was gone. If you have any information on this please contact me at hwaight@gmail.com. Thanks! Hannah

So as to dispel any rumors about the Firetrucks and Sirens around pole 37 two Saturdays ago: A climber broke his leg while trying to make a ropeless ascent of Supernova. He is fine and expected to make a full recovery. Luckily he had friends with him to aid with the rescue.

Thanks for the update James I had been curious about it too ever since. Hope the climber is alright.

Afterthoughts: http://bostonrockgym.wordpress.com/2009/10/23/a-steep-learni>>>>> a worthwhile read

The new edition to Ward's Rumney Guide is finally available. Here is a link for buying it directly: http://www.rumneyclimbing.com/