BETA PHOTO: A view of the book looking up from the base.
Description
Do not miss this climb! While the Horn may take the prize for best trad climb in Pawtuckaway, this beautiful inside corner runs a close second. Start out atop a ledge with two jugs and large feet that will help you get established in the corner. Employing a variety of techniques, layback, stem, smear, and jam your way up the climb with the use of the hand crack in the back. Remember to keep your heels down or your calves will scream and if you’re not used to smearing you might feel a tad insecure. The crux comes early at a small roof, followed shortly thereafter by a lesser crux getting past the remnants of a tree. Every move is easily protected, but above all, the entire climb is enjoyable, aesthetic, and fun. It catches afternoon sun, dries quickly (the ledge at the base may not), and is the perfect excuse to get away from the crowds.
Location
Roughly two minutes walk from Boulder Natural. Follow the trail towards Devil's Den, step over a jagged, fallen tree, and turn right at a large tree with a white blaze onto a faint path uphill. There is a tiny cairn just off the trail. This inside corner is hard to miss and is the first climb you come to. Ascend a gully on the left to set up a toprope.
Protection
The crack will eat as much gear as you'll give it. Bring a lot of medium sized gear up to a #2 camalot. Anything larger probably isn't needed. Tree anchors at the top.
As of 10/23/08, this climb is once again clean. I rapped off the top and removed the pine needles and leaves from the crack as well as scrubbed off a few holds and helpful foot smears.
By Adam Wilcox From: Candia, NH Oct 24, 2008 rating: 5.8
Thanks for the cleaning. I've had my eye on this since I discovered it last winter. Might get on it tomorrow.
By Adam Wilcox From: Candia, NH Oct 25, 2008 rating: 5.8
Lots of fun! My first 5.8 lead and it felt pretty secure. I found doubles of .5 to 1 useful, as well as a single #2, but I'm sure it could be done with less by those more comfortable with the grade.
A REALLY NICE forgotten classic... The coolest thing is that it hasnt seen the traffic over the years that the other classics have seen so its not all glassy and greasy and Belive it or not, it still feels 5.8!
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