BETA PHOTO: The obvious crack line visible from the white trai...
Description
This area is briefly mentioned in the 2nd edition of the New England Bouldering guide.
A collection of large boulders surround a small pond in the center of Pawtuckaway State Park. A cluster of boulders directly abuts the pond, while some others are found in the woods nearby. A number of prominent crack lines looked clean as if they had been climbed before. Some of the more difficult lines were dirty and had loose flakes and may have never been climbed.
Getting There
Park at the boat launch parking lot off of Deerfield Rd. Walk over the foot bridge and turn left to follow the wide trail. After about 10 minutes you will pass the large Fisherman Boulder on the left side of the trail. Continue along the trail until you reach a a small wooden bridge that has been washed out next to a #4 sign on a large tree. Do not cross the stream, instead continue along the narrower trail that leads NW along the side of the marsh. This trailed is marked with white paint blazes. After You will cross a wooden foot bridge and continue to follow the white trail as it snakes around a few marshes. The trail will eventually travel SW with marshes on the left side of the trail. As the marsh ends the trail turns sharply to the north, at this point there is a small stream just off the trail and beyond the stream there a two large boulders in view. One of the large boulders has an obvious wide crack splitting it down the center. At this point move off the trail and cross the stream to these two boulders. Continuing past these boulders towards large boulders in the distance that will lead towards the pond.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Magic Pond:
I made a trip to explore the magic pond after reading about it in the New England Bouldering guide. I believe I found the correct place. I will post some pictures, please if you recognize any of these climbs post any information you know. I would like to stimulate some discussion on the Magic Pond Area because the New England Bouldering guidebook lacks details.
Was I in the right place? Do you know of any more boulders around the pond that I did not photograph? Any info on first ascents? Any boulder problems given names?
I have spent a bunch of time out there as the climbing suits my style. Most of the cracks and corners are in .9 to .10 range, with a few being a bit harder. The big boulder at the top of the hill with the crack wraping around it is hard off the ground and easier as it gets higher. Besides the start I've never done it, but have had friends lead it on gear. Some of the boulders by the pond itself lend themselves to harder bouldering. In the late fall this is one of my favorite areas to spend a day and the best part is...no one is ever around.
As far as established routes go, I would assume all of the cracks were climbed a bunch of years ago. And every few years I hear of stronger climber going out and reclimbing old climbs. Just assume everything has been climbed beofore and have fun at a magical place!
Do you know if there is more bouldering around the entire perimeter of the pond? I only went as far as the cluster of boulders on the edge of the water.
Across the pond from what you photographed are the Beaver Dam boulders. Downstream from them is another cluster, and up the hill behind them are a few scattered large boulders with a beautiful giant boulder a few minutes over the ridge. In the middle of the pond is the Whale boulder, which is climbable in winter for the brave. On the walk out there, the two boulders on the trail are the Twins, the first of which holds a V6 called Pearl Necklace. The first two boulders you find after leaving the trail and crossing the stream are the Gas Boulders. With the exception of the crack climbing, most of the rock is chossy, and nearly everything has been climbed. Keep in mind the area was discovered roughly 6 years ago and not many people venture out there. Hiking out there to climb is more about the solitude and enjoyment than the names and the grades.
Magic Pond is also known as "Incredible Pond" on topographic and orienteering maps. If you're looking to do more exploring in the area take a look at the orienteering course maps out there of Pway, they are online and easy to find. Someone has been nice enough to have gone through the trouble of mapping out just about every rock in the park.
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