Climb broken edges using the face not the arete. This climb is always changing because the holds are always breaking. Somehow this climb doesn't get easier or harder, no matter how many holds break. Great climb to warm up for the Porfessor's crimpy crux.
Location
Route on overhanging face just right of The Professor and Hobbit Hole.
By BDalhaus From: Deerfield, NH Mar 7, 2008 rating: V5
Most people confuse this climb with the arete simply because the arete is not in the guidebooks. This problem uses only the exfoliating face, and most of the upper holds fell off in about 2004. The scar on the rock is quite clear. A low start to this problem is a hard V5. Sit start with your left hand on a tiny edge just below the pocket on the Professor, and your right hand on a sidepull at head height. Pull up and drop left hand onto a devious crimp (crux, can be aggravating) before gastoning another edge with your right hand. Work your feet up, gaston with your left hand, bump to another gaston with your right, then dyno left hand for the lip.
The original beta involved a dyno off the terrible crimp.
ok now im confused and i need to update my guide book cuz i thought i did this route and when i got beta on it the beta was to use the arete... if thats not on.. then what route did i do?
yeah i'm confused about this route as well. also i piece popped off on this thing today. it was at the top of the arrete and had no chalk on it; I was just working some different beta. I don't think the route was harmed. If any one know where the V3 on this rock (like the guide book says) i'd be glad to know.
Boulder Natural
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