Sam Todzia taking a run up this climb while I spot...
Description
Start standing in the middle of the arrowhead shaped boulder on some decent incut holds, the taller they are the easier the problem is. put on a foot and grab the lip, match and get a high right foot, then prepare to roll over onto your right foot as the hands that wait for you will offer little assistance with pulling the lip. Heel hook, slap, and use precise feet to send the crux mantle of this climb! You'll scare yourself on the crux of this great line.
Make sure your spotter is paying attention. In Fall 2005 a spotter received an elbow to the head on this climb and got a cracked skull and had to be transported out by the forest service/fish and game.
Location
Hike 50ft towards pond from terrorist boulder. the problem faces the pond so you won't see it till you walk past it and turn around to look back at terrorist boulder. It usually is pretty heavily chalked.
Protection
Pads and spotters. Beware! a spotter one year ago received massive blunt trauma to his skull courtesy of a climbers elbow whilst falling off the top.
this is the hardest V6 ive touched... never finished it and fell from it many times... joe kinder tried to give me beta on it once "oh shit yo, there is this mad possitive hold way back from the lip, once you get that you are done" though i am always greatful for his super psyched move by move beta this one was no help... the good hold he spoke of is so far back that it can only be reached after the top out, proving how strong joe is... he didnt even know where the crux was...
Ha! Funny storry Lee. This is one of those problems that feels like it shouldn't be as hard as it is. All the beta variations I've tried boil down to "grab the holds just above the lip and try really hard to press it out far enough that you can unweight one of your hands."
By andyscott From: Merrimac, Mass/Gorham, Maine Sep 4, 2009
by far one of the hardest v6's i have ever done, i found the best way of doing it was getting a pretty positive hold all the way to the left with the left hand, grab the big sloper in the middle with your right, throw your heel high and right onto a little imperfection (probably harder the less flexible you are) then put all your weight on the heel and roll up onto your right hand. The topout move is awesome!!!
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