The Professor 

i thought the guide book says V5?

It does. But it is harder than all the other V5s I've done or tried.

i was introduced to this route soon after its first ascent and i was told it was V7... i onsigthed it and as far as i know i came up with the heel hook beta, i sugested V5 but im pretty tall so that might explain it... until then it was all wicked strong dudes who had done it and using techneque had never occured to them they just went straight up without the heel hence, V7... ok im done with my story... good night...

I've never seen anyone use the heel beta. I saw one guy (5'10'') send by sticking the lip with his left from the right hand undercling and another (5'8'') just pull on and stick the lip right handed from the low edge/right undercling holds--he then described the move as being "like throwing a baseball at the lip."

I try this every time I go to Pawtuckaway and can't frickin' do it! It's replaced Gadgetry as "that probelm I just can't seem to do."

i really didnt find this route that difficult. i just used the heel hook and powered 1 move to the top out. Mind you im 6'2" so i see it being a little more difficult for smaller climbers. My friend who is about 5'9" was able to do the same but he found a higher right foot that bumped him up about 4 inches.

Definatly a "holy shit how did i do that" type of route though. Super fun

i'm 5'9" and stuck the top with the left hand on the really good side pull and right hand on the sticky face crimp. it felt v5 to me. the heel hook beta would totally go, but i needed to work it for a little while longer. i thought the first move was the hardest. the weird under cling gave me the most trouble.

I'm weak and suck, but I'm tall. I think that tall person beta makes this very problem much easier, it went down again last night and I don't climb this grade.