BETA PHOTO: The right arete, angle up and left. Harder than it...
Description
Stand start the left angling arete. Reach high with the right hand and get a high right foot. Lay back the arete to the left, the crux is getting up over your feet in the first few moves. With the right beta it really is V2 (get your left foot in the high scoop.)
Location
Up the hill from the "warm up" area, or as you come down the trail go straight at the cairn. The trail will curve to the left (skip the right turn for the "swirly" boulder) and follow for another 200 feet or so past a few other areas. At the top of a hill the problem will be on your right.
Protection
Pads and spotters are not mandatory but you'll probably want them.
This problem requires commitment. The initial barndoor layback move is hard, but the boulder is high and there's lots of good funky arete climbing up above. This one is awesome!
I caught up with a local who said he did this from a SIT start...amazing! I never considered the possibilities, since the stand is so good, but nevertheless it must be a lot harder that way.
The sit start stays true to the arete and starts down and right at the base. Use the juggy arete to start, then follow poor slopers to the left to meet up with the holds of the stand start. The problem is entirely friction dependent and feels something like V6...
Blair Woods
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