Located in Raymond NH, Pawtuckaway State Park is the southern most of the major climbing destinations in New Hampshire.... The rock is smooth granite of a different quality than the granite climbing else where in the state.... As with all New Hampshire crags, it is best in the autumn but fun always.... Known primarily for its bouldering which is some of the best in the country, Pawtuck also hosts a few small crags which are popular for their slabs and crack climbs which, though short, are of super quality.... So, from bouldering to trad climbing, here is a place to hone your skills before you unleash them on the world...Or for those who aren't local this is a great place to take a road trip to.... Pawtuckaway State Park has a campground that is nice (family camping style not dirtbag style) and even has a few camp sites with boulders on them (I recommend site #4).... Camping is prohibited anywhere else in the park.... For more info on the park and camping
Bouldering: many areas with high quality granite boulders from low ball V0 to high balls and V13.... The bouldering here is unmatched in New Hampshire with fine grain granite that will make quick work of wearing through your skin, but you won't want to stop.... Most popular spots are the Boulder Natural Area, Round Pond Boulders, Blair Woods, among others.... Check out the New England climbing documentary Uncommon Ground for a little intro to what you will be climbing on in this magical forest of rocks....
Trad and Top Roping: The lower slabs, Upper cliff, Devils Den And more offer great trad climbing, although you wouldn't know it on a busy day 'cause all you can see are top ropes.... The Upper and Lower Slabs are very popular for summer camps and family top roping outings.... The trad climbing here is short but sweet, 50 feet on average, though Devil's Den offers longer pitches (and fewer crowds).... Crack Master Dean Potter learned much of his crack climbing skill jamming the perfect cracks of P-way and so could you....
Sport climbing: Nope....
WARNING!!! The biting insects of Pawtuckaway don't mess around...They are out for blood and they will come after you like you killed their mother (and you may have on another trip)...Bring bug dope, long sleeves, pants, hats, hoods, and a shotgun to fend them off if you come in the spring or early summer.... Fall is the time to be here, and by the time the kids are back in school the crowds at the popular crags and the bugs have gone away and the park is yours....
Getting There
Getting to the park is easy.... Take exit 5 off of Rt 101 in Raymond NH, then follow signs.... Getting to the climbing areas is more challenging and will be specified in area descriptions....
An awesome boulder problem involving crazy beta and a variety of techniques... Start under the lowest roof in the back of the cave on two hueco pockets in the roof... A few choices here but most people end up in a bat-hang in the wide crack then switch to a toe-cam and make a cool move to the lip of the roof, gaining the crack and the last crux pulling out from under he roof to better holds and the top...A really fun climb...Beta intensive......[more]
Ladd thanks for clarifying which months are good...when i was there i suffered the attack of the flies/mosquitoes...anybody have more bouldering pictures? for the amount of problems, there aren't a whole lot of pictures
The gate off Reservation Rd. was closed this afternoon. There was a guy from NH Forests and Lands there that I spoke to. He said it would likely be closed for two or three weeks.
Pawtuckaway
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