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Pawtuckaway


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Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 10, 2007
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Jay Knower
Latitude: 43.1143  Longitude: -71.1773 
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An unknown climber on Hobbit Hole V3...


Description 

Located in Raymond NH, Pawtuckaway State Park is the southern most of the major climbing destinations in New Hampshire.... The rock is smooth granite of a different quality than the granite climbing else where in the state.... As with all New Hampshire crags, it is best in the autumn but fun always....
Known primarily for its bouldering which is some of the best in the country, Pawtuck also hosts a few small crags which are popular for their slabs and crack climbs which, though short, are of super quality.... So, from bouldering to trad climbing, here is a place to hone your skills before you unleash them on the world...Or for those who aren't local this is a great place to take a road trip to....
Pawtuckaway State Park has a campground that is nice (family camping style not dirtbag style) and even has a few camp sites with boulders on them (I recommend site #4).... Camping is prohibited anywhere else in the park.... For more info on the park and camping

Bouldering: many areas with high quality granite boulders from low ball V0 to high balls and V13....
The bouldering here is unmatched in New Hampshire with fine grain granite that will make quick work of wearing through your skin, but you won't want to stop.... Most popular spots are the Boulder Natural Area, Round Pond Boulders, Blair Woods, among others.... Check out the New England climbing documentary Uncommon Ground for a little intro to what you will be climbing on in this magical forest of rocks....
Bouldering video sample:



Trad and Top Roping:
The lower slabs, Upper cliff, Devils Den And more offer great trad climbing, although you wouldn't know it on a busy day 'cause all you can see are top ropes.... The Upper and Lower Slabs are very popular for summer camps and family top roping outings.... The trad climbing here is short but sweet, 50 feet on average, though Devil's Den offers longer pitches (and fewer crowds).... Crack Master Dean Potter learned much of his crack climbing skill jamming the perfect cracks of P-way and so could you....

Sport climbing: Nope....

WARNING!!! The biting insects of Pawtuckaway don't mess around...They are out for blood and they will come after you like you killed their mother (and you may have on another trip)...Bring bug dope, long sleeves, pants, hats, hoods, and a shotgun to fend them off if you come in the spring or early summer.... Fall is the time to be here, and by the time the kids are back in school the crowds at the popular crags and the bugs have gone away and the park is yours....


Getting There 

Getting to the park is easy.... Take exit 5 off of Rt 101 in Raymond NH, then follow signs.... Getting to the climbing areas is more challenging and will be specified in area descriptions....


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pawtuckaway:
The Whip   V2     Boulder   Round Pond
General Lee   V2     Boulder, 8 feet   Blair Woods
V2 My Ass   V2     Boulder   Blair Woods
Cause for Commotion   V3     Boulder, 12 feet   Round Pond
Hobbit Hole   V3     Boulder, 18 feet   Boulder Natural : The Zoo
Overlooked   V4     Boulder   Trailside Boulders
Burt Gives Blow Jobs   V6     Boulder   Blair Woods
Bulletproof   V6     Boulder, 12 feet   Boulder Natural : The Yosemite Boulder Area
Fuck The Method   V6     Boulder   Blair Woods
Ball Doctor   V6     Boulder   Blair Woods
Ride the Lightning   V6+     Boulder, 12 feet   Boulder Natural : The Storm Boulders
Terrorist   V6+     Boulder, 12 feet   Boulder Natural : The Storm Boulders
The Rose   V7     Boulder, 15 feet   Blair Woods
Up in Smoke   V7     Boulder   Devil's Den Bouldering
Dopeman   V8     Boulder, 15 feet   Round Pond
Pete's Tree   5.5     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Lower Slabs
The Roof   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet   Upper Cliff
The Good Book   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Ridgeline
The Horn   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch   Upper Cliff
China Dragon   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Lakeside Crag
Browse More Classics in Pawtuckaway

Featured Route For Pawtuckaway
Brian post-crux and about to top out

Flower Power V3  NH : Pawtuckaway : Hillside (aka Summit Boulde...
Slopers, heelhooks, and fun. This problem traverses the lip of an overhanging boulder with some good movement and tops out with positive holds on an arete. Sit start the right side of the boulder with a left hand jug above your head and a massive right hand flake/jug. Pull off the ground, heelhook, then follow the rising lip to the left. Once you gain the top arete, rock over onto the face and run to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH


Photos of Pawtuckaway Slideshow Add Photo
one of the coolest fetures I have seen at pawtuckaway, this is the balance boulder at round pond. look how small the rock is under it!

one of the coolest fetures I have seen at pawtucka...

Jakob on what i call the best problem in NH... Overlooked V4

Jakob on what i call the best problem in NH... Ove...


Comments on Pawtuckaway Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 12, 2009
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 12, 2007

This area is awesome from August-Mid May however the late spring/summer bring killer black flies that make climbing miserable

By cstorms
From: Denver, CO
Mar 14, 2008

Ladd thanks for clarifying which months are good...when i was there i suffered the attack of the flies/mosquitoes...anybody have more bouldering pictures? for the amount of problems, there aren't a whole lot of pictures

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Feb 15, 2009

Basilisk has scanned an old guidebook for Pawtuckaway. You can download it here.

By Tara Anne
From: WA
Apr 24, 2009

A bit of a trek through the woods, careful for bottoming out or scraping your car with branches. The area is a bit hidden, but has amazing climbs and feels great in such a secluded area. It feels a bit like a hidden gem in the middle of the woods... Stop at the information building, they'll know somewhat how to get there. May take a few tries and misses before you get on the right track. There should be fliers explaining how to get to the boulders, drive careful!

By Paul Dieterle
From: Mad City, WI
May 16, 2009

so i want to come to pawtuckaway in july. i realize it wont be of the same quality as the fall, but will it be miserable? my dad has been to rumney at the same time of year, but it was an unusually cold day which he thought discouraged bugs. thanks, paul

By JulianM
From: Portland, ME
May 17, 2009

Paul, Pawtuckaway is about half covered by swamp, so the bugs can be intense. July is likely to be hot and humid as well. With bug spray you could probably enjoy yourself, but it's risky with the temps and the bugs.

Also, this conversation should probably be happening in the forums...

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
May 28, 2009

Just finished putting together a video of a day at Pawtuckaway featuring classics like Overlooked and Hobbit Hole and also some of the new Trailside stuff ive cleaned in the last year or so... check it out...

By M Sprague
Jun 9, 2009

What are people calling the big area down below the south slope of South Mountain now, the general area where the huge Mowgli boulder is? About 5-6 years ago Ward and Chris Smith, Dave Quinn and myself rediscovered the area, cleaned and put up a bunch of problems. I then showed Brett the area and there has since been more development (a highball V10 among others). I haven't been able to get back for a few years, but I thought this area was at least equal if not better than most of the other areas. Im surprised to see nothing about it here yet.

By Jesse Coburn
From: Manchester, NH
Jun 9, 2009

where is it in relation to a currently well developed area?

By BDalhaus
From: Deerfield, NH
Jun 9, 2009

The area off the back of South Mountain has been dubbed "Area 51" by those responsible for most of the recent development. Due to a lack of a clear trail and concern amongst park officials about hunters frequenting the area, I haven't wanted to post anything about it. There are probably 100+ problems out there now, but the hike is roughly 40 minutes to get there.

By M Sprague
Jun 10, 2009

Hmm.. I don't remember it taking quite that long to get to it. I used to drive in via Reservation Rd, take a left on Tower Rd and in a few hundred yards park on the rt at the junction with Mountain Tr. (Look for #5 on park map) Walk in here and instead of breaking left like you were going to the tower, stay straight until you are coming down the south slope of S Mountain. Break left off the dirt track and head basically east with S Mountain on your left and a small marsh on your rt. You will first go by more scattered boulders, then the boulders get better, bigger and more clustered.

Unless the park officials really don't want anything published, I think you should go ahead and post. I just made sure I wore orange during hunting season and never had a problem.. I know my friends and I must have put up at least 50 problems and many were super good. With the further development, it must be loaded with classics. The walk is well worth it.

By Jesse Coburn
From: Manchester, NH
Jun 10, 2009

thanks. i'll be sure to make my way out there verrryy soon

By Jesse Coburn
From: Manchester, NH
Jun 29, 2009

tried finding the area you were talking about but had some difficulty. there were two intersections that i came across. I went riightish/straight at both of them and started to go down a hill, but the road was in rough shape and decided that id rather have a better idea of were the boulders were before i trekked through the river/trail.

was i right in going right/straight at both intersections?

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 29, 2009

jesse, if its the same place im thinking of... i think ive been lost out there too... but i hear good things...

By Adam Wilcox
From: Candia, NH
Jun 29, 2009

That sounds right. The road has been pretty wet the last few weeks, but if you keep following it you'll come to a swamp that visible on your left. Take a left off the road and bushwhack into the woods before you get to the swamp.

By Jesse Coburn
From: Manchester, NH
Jun 29, 2009

so just before the swamp head left? any other land marks? are the boulders visible from the trail?

i'm really good at getting lost... so any specifics could be life savers haha thanks

By BDalhaus
From: Deerfield, NH
Jun 30, 2009

Jesse, you were right in going right each time, but if you were looking for a trail, you won't find one. I went out there about 3 weeks ago and whatever herd path there used to be has been destroyed by the ice storm last winter. There is a cairn marking where it starts, but there aren't any boulders visible from the trail because they are probably 15 minutes from the trail. When conditions improve, I can take you out there.

By Jesse Coburn
From: Manchester, NH
Jun 30, 2009

alright thanks bryce. "when conditions improve" that might be next year

By M Sprague
Jul 1, 2009

1 decent boulder just a couple min in from the dirt track, up hill towards the ridge with an overhang, facing you. start on the rt side of the overhang, sitting and traverse left then top out at the crack. some more stuff in the back too. i remember it being a decent place to warm up in the winter as it got the sun and tended to dry out quickly. no idea what we called it

By Jesse Coburn
From: Manchester, NH
Jul 4, 2009

found it today.. the climbing there looks to be pretty good. most of the stuff was along a stream correct? The trail is very faint but on my way back I found it. there also seems to be some slab stuff there too. Some of that stuff looked fun. I only found like 15 or so boulders that were tall enough to be climbed on.. and then it started to rain.

By Jon Felch
Aug 9, 2009

Has anybody climbed at the Magic Pond in the middle of Pawtuckaway Park? if you have and have any information to share please add it to the new Magic Pond area I added to the site. I posted some pictures of the boulders so if you know the names of any of the climbs let us know.

By Adam Knoff
Sep 11, 2009

Does anyone know what the actual rule pertaining to dogs is here? I keep finding conflicting info. Are they allowed in the park or not? Do they enforce this? What about after labor day? Thanks.

By JulianM
From: Portland, ME
Sep 11, 2009

Can't quote the rule for you Adam, but I encounter dogs there every time I go. I have friends who bring dogs as well. Never seen or heard of anyone catching grief for it.

By Adam Knoff
Sep 11, 2009

Thanks Julian. The hound will be very excited to hear that!

By nhclimber
From: Nottingham, NH
Sep 11, 2009

Romeo, my dog, has always gone to p-way. I think that the climbing areas are far enough away from the main area that it really isn't an issue. Especially blair woods/fire tower/magic pond/etc.

By Chris Robichaud
Oct 12, 2009

Camping link is dead, this looks like where it was moved - http://www.nhstateparks.org/state-parks/alphabetical-order/p>>>>>