Mike Garrity on the steep stuff, Geographic Factor...
Description
On the right side of the Hinterlands in the winter, you will find and impressive flow of ice pouring from a basaltic dike... This is Geographic Factor, Rumney's most classic ice climb.... It's about 100 feet tall with varied climbing the bulk of the business coming in the middle....
Starting out, it's hard to tell how steep it is, but as you climb the awkward first half of the route in a corner next to a rock face, you see the pillar looming above you at about 50 feet you can rest in a cave place some killer gear and get ready to get pumped...Exit the cave and climb the super steep pillar and try to be quick about it...It gets pumpy...After about 20 feet of steep you get a stance on normally sun baked ice, 20 feet of moderate climbing leads to a trick but not too hard exit bulge....
Super exposed positioning and interesting climbing make this one a must do!!!
Location
When you get to the Hinterlands walk right..... You can't miss it...it's the one saying "climb me."
Protection
A full rack of screws.... Piton in the corner down low, may be covered in ice.... Fixed sling and ring anchor on the tree at the top....