Mike Garrity climbing an apparently unnamed gull...
Description
I love to climb ice at Rumney... Obviously the best thing at Rumney is sport climbing but the ice at Rumney is really fun... And much closer if you are coming from the south (and most people are) than the more popular ice areas....
The down side to ice climbing at Rumney is the same as the up side...Southern exposure...On the down side the sun can bake the ice off the rock fairly quickly...The up side is it will keep you nice and warm compared to the north-facing cliffs that get more attention.... However, a few cloudy cold days can build the ice up well enough to put up with the sun for a few days at a time.... Bottom line is that Rumney is worth making a trip to in the winter to climb some ice, I find there is always something to climb in January and February even early march other months are hit or miss....
The classic lines on ice to name a few are: Geographic Factor 5 (THE BEST), Selsun Blue 4, The Cave Route 3, Center Fold 3, among other great flows....
There are mixed climbing opportunities all over but remember to be respectful of the sport routes and don't damage holds with tools and crampons.... If you are not sure if it's OK to climb something with ice gear IT'S NOT....
Have fun. There is something for everyone....
Getting There
Many of the cliffs at Rumney host some ice. They will be listed individually....
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rumney Ice Climbs:
This route doesn't get fat very often but if it does it is a must do, it is a lot of fun. Can be done in two pitches but also in one with a 70m rope. Start right on the easy slab and make your way up to the beautiful column, that is very inviting. Once past the slab move to the left of the ice flow this requires a semi awkward traverse. From here climb up the steep ice using all the rests you can get, just before the top there is sometimes a foot...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
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