Rumney Ice Climbs

Mike Garrity climbing an apparently unnamed gull...

Description 

Obviously the best thing at Rumney is sport climbing but the ice at Rumney is really fun. And much closer if you are coming from the south (and most people are) than the more popular ice areas.

The down side to ice climbing at Rumney is the same as the up side: southern exposure. On the down side the sun can bake the ice off the rock fairly quickly. The up side is it will keep you nice and warm compared to the north-facing cliffs that get more attention. However, a few cloudy cold days can build the ice up well enough to put up with the sun for a few days at a time. Bottom line is that Rumney is worth making a trip to in the winter to climb some ice. I find there is always something to climb in January and February even early March. Other months are hit or miss.

The classic lines on ice to name a few are: Geographic Factor 5 (THE BEST), Selsun Blue 4, The Cave Route 3, Center Fold 3, among other great flows.

There are mixed climbing opportunities all over but remember to be respectful of the sport routes and don't damage holds with tools and crampons. If you are not sure if it's OK to climb something with ice gear...IT'S NOT.

Getting There 

Many of the cliffs at Rumney host some ice. They will be listed individually.

The Classics

Featured Route For Rumney Ice Climbs

Geographic Factor WI5  NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : ... : Hinterlands

On the right side of the Hinterlands in the winter, you will find and impressive flow of ice pouring from a basaltic dike. This is Geographic Factor, Rumney's most classic ice climb. It's about 100 feet tall with varied climbing the bulk of the business coming in the middle. Starting out, it's hard to tell how steep it is, but as you climb the awkward first half of the route in a corner next to a rock face, you see the pillar looming above you at...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Rumney Ice Climbs Slideshow

Add Photo

my dad (ernie) on the cave route...	Casey, down from his 3rd lead ever.	Rumney in Winter
The lunch cave	BETA PHOTO: the rock route Long Board looking like an ice rout...	nasty spring ice on the right side of Bonsai. Loo...