Mike Garrity climbing an apparently unnamed gull...
Description
I love to climb ice at Rumney... Obviously the best thing at Rumney is sport climbing but the ice at Rumney is really fun... And much closer if you are coming from the south (and most people are) than the more popular ice areas....
The down side to ice climbing at Rumney is the same as the up side...Southern exposure...On the down side the sun can bake the ice off the rock fairly quickly...The up side is it will keep you nice and warm compared to the north-facing cliffs that get more attention.... However, a few cloudy cold days can build the ice up well enough to put up with the sun for a few days at a time.... Bottom line is that Rumney is worth making a trip to in the winter to climb some ice, I find there is always something to climb in January and February even early march other months are hit or miss....
The classic lines on ice to name a few are: Geographic Factor 5 (THE BEST), Selsun Blue 4, The Cave Route 3, Center Fold 3, among other great flows....
There are mixed climbing opportunities all over but remember to be respectful of the sport routes and don't damage holds with tools and crampons.... If you are not sure if it's OK to climb something with ice gear IT'S NOT....
Have fun. There is something for everyone....
Getting There
Many of the cliffs at Rumney host some ice. They will be listed individually....
The huge flow up the middle of the cliff....Really fun, one of the best ice climbs at Rumney....Melts a lot on a sunny day but rebuilds well most nights....Easier if you start at the left and work right following the lower-angle moves.... Probably WI4+ if you go straight up the steepest parts...Like most ice climbs the difficulty is subject to conditions....This is a really nice place to be on a winter day looking out from the cliff top at the Ba...[more]
By lee hansche From: goffstown, nh Mar 10, 2008 CONDITION REPORT
i hiked around rumney today and was surprised to see lots of ice on the obscure routes and many of the dependable classics nearly gone... if you want to climb geografic factor or any of the routes up there at hinterlands they are fatter than ive ever seen them... Tripple corners was huge and looked like great fun... the pillar haning off of silver surfer looks like it wants to touch down though i doubt it ever would but it is giant...
im going to post some photos and add some routes that are looking good...
tomorrow is supposed to be quite warm but a morning session could be very productive since it will be down in the low 20s tonight...
Rumney Ice Climbs
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