Mt. Willard

BETA PHOTO: Mt. Willey and Mt. WIllard, showing Willey's slide...

Description 

Though I wouldn't describe this area as an "alpine" area, it is very exposed and could be very cold in bad weather. The approach is somewhat technical and to retreat from some of the upper routes requires a rappel and some technical 4th class downclimbing.

The routes are spread out along the east and south faces. The East face can be broken into the lower and upper cliff bands and contain some great moderate climbs like Hitchock Gully and the east face slabs as well as some tough mixed lines, like Dial M for Murder. The south face has a variety of climbs like the numbered gullies, Great Madness, and the Cinema Gully.

The routes offer great views over the notch and the large amount and variety of routes make Mt. Willard feel like an alpine playground.

Getting There 

Park at the top of the notch in a plowed out parking lot, just south of the Crawford Notch visitor's biulding. Many winter trails leave from this area as well. Walk south along the railroad tracks to the bottom of the area in which you plan to climb.

The Classics

Featured Route For Mt. Willard

Cinema Gully WI2  NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Mt. Willard

This is a great climb that ascends the slabby and beautiful South face of Mt. Willard that you can't miss as you drive North through Crawford Notch on US302. It is a classic climb and lives up to it's hype, although it can often be busy on weekends. There are several bulges on a moderate angle slab with the longest at the top. There are 2 main exits form this climb. To the left it stays at a sustained Grade 2 and to the right it is usually closer...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH