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Garfield Crag

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Garfield Crag

Submitted By: bradley white on Aug 12, 2009
Administrator: Jay Knower
Views: 100 page views

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Description 

Several ice flows from WI3+ to WI5 multi-pitch climbs exist. Condition of ice flows dependent on weather. Sometimes very thin to nothing at all can exist on some of the longer flows. Be prepared for bitter coldness or worst rain sometimes.


Getting There 

Cross country skis and snow shoes are needed. Turn left at Thirteen Falls Campground and follow trail towards Mt. Lafayette. When trail crosses Franconia Brook, keep heading straight on an old logging road. When logging road terminates to being mostly forest head uphill for 1 mile heading slightly east. When slope gets steep your underneath it and keep going up. If slope doesn't get steep after much walking you missed and you'll have to try again. Not easy to find. Shortest distance to car parked 6-7 miles. Longest distance to car 10 miles. Shortest distance is by Garfield Trail to the A.T. follow it east to trail leading down to 13 Falls. Don't go to Falls, instead cut traverse across slope until crag comes into view. Another way is Gale Head Trail to Gale Head Hut and walk south and down past Hut to 13 Falls. Easiest and longest way take Wilderness Trail to Franconia Brook Trail to 13 Falls Campground. Day trips from 13 Falls Campground would be a good way to do multiple visits. I would ski into the area and camp near Franconia Brook for easy water access. Fires during winter are okay I believe. Check with National Forest service first. Leave no trace. No pitons or fixed webbing.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Garfield Crag:
Post Hole Alphonso   WI4     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Leaving the Shire   WI4     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 100 feet   
Mad Dog (Top roped)   WI4-5 M2+ R     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II   
Sick Pup   WI5     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
The Big One   WI5 M1+     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II   
Browse More Classics in Garfield Crag

Comments on Garfield Crag Add Comment
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By Adam Wilcox
From: Candia, NH
Aug 13, 2009

You certainly get around.

Thanks for sharing, Brad. I might never go to a lot of these places but I enjoy reading about them.

By bradley white
From: Pymouth, N.H.
Aug 14, 2009

You are welcome Adam.
I used mole skinned cross country skis with Tirol adjustable bindings that fit ice climbing boots on the Wilderness trail to Franconia Brook trail and then would camp close to the brook west uphill from 13 falls campground. I modified a weight lifter's belt with loop holes to drag two kid sleds behind me. These sleds were loaded with food, camping supplies and climbing gear. I had 10 days off between Christmas and New years day. I usually stayed six days out there. One day to approach and set up camp. One day to snowshoe up to the crag's base. Three or four days climbing and one day to break camp and ski back to the car. I went out there four years. The only person that ever joined me was Jim Shimberg. The rest of my climbing associates I believe, thought I was nuts.
I had some mishaps over the years, sleds careening off the trail snapping the drag lines, Spent one night with Jim at 30 below zero, had my camp destroyed in 1984 year by high wind spouts and rain. I had to build a fire inside what was left of my shelter to survive the night. Scratched my corneas by fire ash and after seeing the doctor had to wear patches on both eyes for a week. I loved it out there away from civilization except for a radio and sometimes Jim.

By Mike Thompson
From: amherst NH
Aug 15, 2009

you are one burly dude bradley :)