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DescriptionSeveral ice flows from WI3+ to WI5 multi-pitch climbs exist. Condition of ice flows dependent on weather. Sometimes very thin to nothing at all can exist on some of the longer flows. Be prepared for bitter coldness or worst rain sometimes. Getting ThereCross country skis and snow shoes are needed. Turn left at Thirteen Falls Campground and follow trail towards Mt. Lafayette. When trail crosses Franconia Brook, keep heading straight on an old logging road. When logging road terminates to being mostly forest head uphill for 1 mile heading slightly east. When slope gets steep your underneath it and keep going up. If slope doesn't get steep after much walking you missed and you'll have to try again. Not easy to find. Shortest distance to car parked 6-7 miles. Longest distance to car 10 miles. Shortest distance is by Garfield Trail to the A.T. follow it east to trail leading down to 13 Falls. Don't go to Falls, instead cut traverse across slope until crag comes into view. Another way is Gale Head Trail to Gale Head Hut and walk south and down past Hut to 13 Falls. Easiest and longest way take Wilderness Trail to Franconia Brook Trail to 13 Falls Campground. Day trips from 13 Falls Campground would be a good way to do multiple visits. I would ski into the area and camp near Franconia Brook for easy water access. Fires during winter are okay I believe. Check with National Forest service first. Leave no trace. No pitons or fixed webbing. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Garfield Crag:
Post Hole Alphonso WI4 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Leaving the Shire WI4 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 100 feet
Mad Dog (Top roped) WI4-5 M2+ R Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II
Sick Pup WI5 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet
The Big One WI5 M1+ Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II
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