A really cool intro to mixed climbing... The climbing is moderate, well protected and everywhere you stick your tool you find just what you want... A must do if you are interested at all in dry tooling...
Pitch 1: climb the regular start to Pegasus then move right to a 2 bolt belay between a short pillar and the Hobbit gully...
Pitch 2: Climb the short steep pillar left of the belay then up in to the corner... Clip pins and sink in to perfect dry-tooling up the corner stemming when possible... then pull the awkward top out and belay from the trees...
really great fun...
A cool variation start is to head up Hobbit Couloir climbing the beginning of the gully breaking left up a smear of ice and on to a few cool bulges leading right up to the pillar before the mixed stuff on the Rock Finish...
Location
climb the first pitch of Pegasus heading right to a 2 bolt belay just left of Hobbit...
Protection
Screws a few nuts and cams to back up the 3 pins, or just trust them and don't fall...
I remember climbing the rock finish once and saying to myself, "This is the best ice climbing I have ever done." Then I realized that I was climbing rock. That showed me that I am a rock climber first and an ice climber as a very distant second.
My point is that the rock finish is a perfect drytooling experience. You are still using tools and crampons, but with the added solidity of rock. Highly recommended.
RSS Feed
