The training grounds... Every Experienced ice climber in NH has spent time cutting their teeth at Frankenstein... It seem like it was designed for the sport, with routes of all grades within a short easy walk from the car... One might start out on Standard Route or one of the easy slabs on there first day out then realize that there is a route for every step of the progression from novice to the skill required to climb the hardest routes anywhere... Far from the commitment required to climb on Cannon or Lake Willoughby Frankenstein is great for developing the skills on short routes so you have them to work with when you are ready to commit to something a little more uncertain...
Most routes are 1-2 pitches some maybe 3 and there really are routes of every grade... Some classics are Standard Route(3), Chia(3+), Pegasus(3+/4), Dracula(4+), Dropline(5), if things get crowded don't worry these classics are just the tip of the iceburg, look around and you will find more quality ice than you know what to do with... Most routes come in consistently though there are some that will only appear sporadically, you can normally count on having something to climb from December to March but hey we are in New Hampshire and weather is far from an exact science around here...
From the parking area you will hike along a railroad track and look for the ice up the hill on your left the first big ice you will see is Smear(3) a wide flow that can be thin in early season look for a steep ramp running up from right to left...This is followed by the Amphitheater which holds many quality lines... You can check Amphitheater conditions by looking over from the Trestle... Across the Trestle you will get to Standard Route Dracula Area and finally the Hanging Gardens... If you can't find something you like in any of these areas you simply don't like ice climbing...
The cliffs are north facing so plan on being in the shade unless you pick the right route and time it just right... Dress warm cause those belays can get pretty cold when the wind is whipping down the notch...
Getting There
Located in Crawford Notch on Route 302
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Frankenstein Ice Climbs:
The icefall derives its name from perhaps some resemblance to Dracula's winged cape. The climb is well visible from the road.Moderate and one of the most popular climbs at Frankenstein. Almost always in. The easier left side goes at WI4+. The right side is slightly harder (WI5?) and is more dependent on conditions.Get there early or get in line....[more]Browse More Classics in NH
Frankenstein is to ice climbing what Stately Pleasure Dome is to rock climbing... practically drive though (ok, Frankenstein actually has a short approach, it's not quite fall out of your car & start belaying).
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