An impresive ribbon of ice wedged in the middle of a smooth rock face. The route is done in three pitches. Even though the crux is at the beginning of the second pitch, it is not over until you are on the very top. P1: WI4 ice leading to a ledge with bolts (see picture) P2: The meat of the climb. Crux is right off the ledge. Climb the overhang (can be thin with frontpointing on small rock crystals in "out" conditions) and continue on a spectacular ice shute to belay from ice screws in the alcove P3: Climb up the ice (WI4) to under a large chockstone and climb around it either to the left or to the right. I ended up letting the tools hang from the leashes and hand-jammed the crack to the left (hard! M5?)
By Patrick McCarthy From: Columbus Ohio Dec 11, 2006 rating: WI5
The column at the beginning of the second pitch was non-existent when we did this route making for a couple of tough mixed (M5?) moves to gain good ice above. Kris protected this by clipping an old piton and backing it up with a marginal cam.
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